Decreasing wheel hop?

[Dirty8-un-Dreds]

Ive got some really bad wheel hop, happens when I try to take corners fast, or when I try to do burnouts, sometimes off a hard launch at the track too. Its really pissing me off, is there a way to cure wheel hop?

[navyblue2000]

torque arm.
the jegster tq arm was recommended to me.
friend with 580+ hp LT1 uses it, so do several other locals.

[12secondv6]

Trailing arms instead of torque arm
I run hotchkis boxed
Install of them completey eliminated wheel hop on my bird
Trailing arms are cheaper and easier to install

[StockV6Cam2]

Yeah the Lower Control Arms (Trailing Arms) are a great mod. They reduced my wheel hop to almost nothing. (Had a very tiny bit at the track once because of a low RPM launch)

[Dirty8-un-Dreds]

kewl thx guys. Ill order myself a set of those.

[strobhen]

Gonna kill your cornering if you get boxed lca's -- I bet you get a lot of wheel hop accelerating out of a turn.

Boxed lca's won't help that much. They resist twisting too much and will create bind in your suspension.

Boxed only for drag, rod-end for serious performance (great for drag or cornering, but a tad expensive & require maintenance), 1le for budget applications.

Boxed -- I hear Hotchkis is the best
Rod -- www.lgmotorsports.com -- they have a rod-ended (race adjustable) set of LCA's w/ a poly bushing on one end and a rod on the other. Makes it more streetable. 199, will need to replace the rod end every 10k miles or so.
1le -- find the part number & head over to gmpartsdirect & grab it

[Dirty8-un-Dreds]

thx for letting me know about the cornering issues, I do plan to try other things than drag with the car so perhaps ill look into the more expensive suspension mods.

[navyblue2000]

that torque arm will reduce wheelhop and not affect your cornering ability.

[strobhen]

The rod really aren't that much more expensive. In maintenance, yes, but the initial investment isn't much more (might even be cheaper than hotchkis boxed).

I wouldn't go with another brand of rod-end lca's than LG, quality issues (especially w/ the rod ends, BMR's will make a lot of noise & will wear quickly). Realize though you may get some noise from a rod-end lca. Great places for research are the autocross forums on ls1.com and the supension forums on ls1tech.com. Both have a lot of excellent posts about lca's.

Really not making enough torque to need a torque arm, and the lca's should give a little more improvement than a torque arm will for less money.

If you plan on autocrossing, don't do either right now until you are comfortable with the class they will put you in -- which I am looking that up right now & will post again in a few.

[jonny985]

If you are going with 1LE I would recommend going to LMperformance rather than GMpartsdirect. LM is cheaper.

I personally did new prothane poly bushings in my LCAs and Panhard bar and got rid of all wheel hop on the road, I havn't tried them at the track yet. I wouldn't recommend doing those yourself unless you are very confident with you mechanical ability and have about 4 hours to press the old bushings out and the new ones in.

You also may want to consider a torque arm bushing. With the power that our cars put out, it is probably the most efficent way to upgrade that.

[12secondv6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by strobhen:
Gonna kill your cornering if you get boxed lca's -- I bet you get a lot of wheel hop accelerating out of a turn.

Boxed lca's won't help that much. They resist twisting too much and will create bind in your suspension.

Boxed only for drag, rod-end for serious performance (great for drag or cornering, but a tad expensive & require maintenance), 1le for budget applications.

Boxed -- I hear Hotchkis is the best
Rod -- www.lgmotorsports.com -- they have a rod-ended (race adjustable) set of LCA's w/ a poly bushing on one end and a rod on the other. Makes it more streetable. 199, will need to replace the rod end every 10k miles or so.
1le -- find the part number & head over to gmpartsdirect & grab it<hr></blockquote>

I run hotchkis boxed trailing arms and pan hard rod.
When I had a strut tower brace and power steering my bird handled like a mo fo!!!
Handling was incredible.
In my experience traction and handling improved drastically.

[StockV6Cam2]

I have BMR LCA's and they're fine for me. No noise and no visible wear. The key to no noise is greasing the bolts you put in there, otherwise when it gets cold and everything gets a little smaller the LCA tends to bump the bolts making sound when you hit bumps or whatever. I absolutely LOVE the BMR LCA's. My launches are better (thus my 1.874 60') and cornering is better too. We're having a Group Purchase on BMR products at www.fbodytrader.com and a set of brand new tubular LCA's is 91 bucks. Check it out!

[strobhen]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>I run hotchkis boxed trailing arms and pan hard rod.
When I had a strut tower brace and power steering my bird handled like a mo fo!!!
Handling was incredible.
In my experience traction and handling improved drastically.
<hr></blockquote>

I could quote several experienced autocrossers (including Sam Strano, and Louis G. even though he is a road racer) to support what I said.

I am talking about taking the car to its limits -- autocrossing. Its not something your going to be able to test on the street very well unless if you like risking your life. [img]smile.gif[/img]

If your car is a drag-racer/street car only. Then boxed will probably be ok. Just don't street race & take a corner really fast.

[ November 01, 2002: Message edited by: strobhen ]</p>

[V6Bob]

IMHO, the bushings are the most important thing with LCAs. Rubber has a lot of virtues here. Other choices are:

Rod ends. Best from a chassis point of view. The problem is you need good ones and they need to be maintained well. It's not easy to figure out how to get good ones and maintain them. If the rod ends screw up, catastrophic failure is possible. SCCA insists that rod ends have special (captive) mountings to protect against this.

Poly. Worst from a chassis point of view. When just one wheel moves up something has to twist and the bushings are the obvious place, especially if the LCAs are strong. These are good for straight line only and how many of us have a pure drag car, not street driven?

All in all, if you're going to change LCAs, the 1LEs (rubber bushings) are probably the best choice for most people.

[ November 01, 2002: Message edited by: V6Bob ]</p>

[12secondv6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by strobhen:


I could quote several experienced autocrossers (including Sam Strano, and Louis G. even though he is a road racer) to support what I said.

I am talking about taking the car to its limits -- autocrossing. Its not something your going to be able to test on the street very well unless if you like risking your life. [img]smile.gif[/img]

If your car is a drag-racer/street car only. Then boxed will probably be ok. Just don't street race & take a corner really fast.

[ November 01, 2002: Message edited by: strobhen ]<hr></blockquote>


Oh ok, never knew this.
And I never took my car to the extreme before.
Sure powersliding on the street a couple of times but I never autocrossed it.
Thanks, I did not know that