*Removing the Front Sway Bar* - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

*Removing the Front Sway Bar*

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • *Removing the Front Sway Bar*

    I have another topic in the Drag Racing Forum about doing stuff before I go to the track, blah, blah, blah, anyway one of the things that came up was to remove the Front Sway Bar. So I thought I would post my questions in this forum since it’s part of the suspension.

    Will removing the Sway Bar effect the front end alignment?
    Will removing the Sway Bar do any harm to the front end?
    Can I just jack up one side of the car, slide under it and take off the sway bar that way, or do I have to do it on a level surface like a lift?
    Can someone give me step by step instructions on how to remove the front sway bar the correct way, like what to remove first, etc...
    Thank you very much guys! [img]smile.gif[/img]

    BTW, for anybody that’s curious about my other topic “that I mentioned above” in the Drag Racing Forum here’s a link:

    http://www.camarov6.com/ubb/ultimate...;f=10;t=002198
    Topic: Paging 12secondv6, Little G, all the fast guys! LOL
    2002 Z28 A4
    SLP Lid | TSP Rumbler | P&P Throttle Body | No Cats | 3.42s | M/T Drag Radials | No Front Sway Bar

    12.76 @ 108.42 w/ 1.90 60’


  • #2
    I have heard it may put more stress on your front shocks...


    also to get it off... The Easiest way is pull jack the front up(I go under the front crossmember) use a 13mm flat wrench and 13mm deep socket to get teh endlinks off, then a 1/2in deep socket to get the sway bar brackets off(4 bolts)

    then wheels back on. I have done it with the wheels on bit its a bit more of a pain in the ***.
    -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

    Comment


    • #3
      So, loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, take the jack and put it under the front crossmember, jack up the car, then finish loosening the lug nuts, then take off both wheels. Then use a 13mm flat wrench and 13mm deep socket to get the endlinks off, then a 1/2in deep socket to get the sway bar brackets off (4 bolts). Then put the wheels back on. Is that correct? [img]smile.gif[/img]
      2002 Z28 A4
      SLP Lid | TSP Rumbler | P&P Throttle Body | No Cats | 3.42s | M/T Drag Radials | No Front Sway Bar

      12.76 @ 108.42 w/ 1.90 60’

      Comment


      • #4
        yep... if you want ot make it a little more complete...

        when yoou tighten the lugs do it in a star pattern. [img]smile.gif[/img]
        -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by shenanigans:
          yep... if you want ot make it a little more complete...

          when yoou tighten the lugs do it in a star pattern. [img]smile.gif[/img]
          Na, I’m just going to put the wheels on w/o the lug nuts for weight reduction. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
          2002 Z28 A4
          SLP Lid | TSP Rumbler | P&P Throttle Body | No Cats | 3.42s | M/T Drag Radials | No Front Sway Bar

          12.76 @ 108.42 w/ 1.90 60’

          Comment


          • #6
            I used ramps. To keep any load off of the bar.

            I got rims and tires at nearly the same time, so I got an aligment also, i'm sure it didnt hurt anything.

            Comment


            • #7
              Like Eric said, you don't need to take the wheels off, and it's really not any more difficult. I put my 1LE bar on without removing the wheels.

              You use a box wrench on the top bolt, and the rachet on the bottom bolt (in the lower control arm) but beware, depending on the age and what your driving conditions are, if they have never been replaced they could very easily be siezed and the bolt could twist off or require you to cut them off.

              I didn't have any problems with the bracket bolts on a 12-year old car, only the endlinks.
              1994 Firebird 3.4<br />15.65 @ 86.8<br /><a href=\"http://www.funkz.net/firebird.htm\" target=\"_blank\">funkz.net/firebird</a><br /><a href=\"http://mywebpages.comcast.net/funkz/timeslips.htm\" target=\"_blank\">Timeslips</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                yeah stock endlinks do blow... I snapped one at 45k with kuhmo 712s for tires [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

                Comment

                Latest Topics

                Collapse

                There are no results that meet this criteria.

                FORUM SPONSORS

                Collapse
                Working...
                X