Bleeding Brakes

[98Camaro3.8]

Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
also Matt, the apllying of brakes is the last thing to happen when the TCS is doing tis thing. timing retard, throttle angle control, then aplly brakes.

Exactly, it's gonna try eveything else before it applies the brakes. We're reading the same page anyways. [img]tongue.gif[/img]


There are a couple different ways to bleed the brakes. The normal 2 being Manual and Pressure bleeding. To bleed the ABS system is called the ABS Automated Bleed. You do that after you bleed the brakes the normal way.

Under normal braking and bleeding, those special valves are closed so no air can get in them. If air gets in there, though, you can't bleed it without the computer telling it to open the valves.

[BLLDOGG]

Originally posted by 98Camaro3.8:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
also Matt, the apllying of brakes is the last thing to happen when the TCS is doing tis thing. timing retard, throttle angle control, then aplly brakes.

Exactly, it's gonna try eveything else before it applies the brakes. We're reading the same page anyways. [img]tongue.gif[/img] </font>[/QUOTE]yeah

i was about to edit my post and mention that i dont even need to say anything to you :cool:

When i went through brakes in school, i was bleeding the abs of a 99 tahoe and i was pushing on that pedal so hard, i broke the seat :D

[BLLDOGG]

Originally posted by 98Camaro3.8:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BLLDOGG:
also Matt, the apllying of brakes is the last thing to happen when the TCS is doing tis thing. timing retard, throttle angle control, then aplly brakes.

You do that after you bleed the brakes the normal way.</font>[/QUOTE]then you have to bleed the normal way again because it is now pushing the air out of the ABS into the brake lines.

[shock_core]

Originally posted by BLLDOGG:

by the way, after all this, you dont need to bleed your system if you only replacing your pads and rotors [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

you will just simply take off your rotor and hang it from the inerfinder somewhere, replace the pads, then pull the rotor, replace it, bolt the rotor back on and go on your way. [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

Hm, I wish I knew this before hand.

All that ABS stuff sounds like so much fun. I'll do it one day, in the near future. :D

[99bluebird]

There is an easy way to do a quasi bleed while changing the pads, makes it easier as well: When you remove your old pads, to expand the caliper for your new ones to fit on the rotor do like the haynes manual says and use a C-clamp for each of the pistons, but instead of pushing the fluid back through the lines, open your bleeder screw while clamping and squirt the fluid out that way. This will remove air from inside the pistons in the caliper at least. Be sure to close the bleeder screw tightly as soon as the piston is fully compressed (with the clamp still on) though or else you risk it floating back out and sucking in air.