Improved handling?

[pcgame4life]

To get better handling and better over all ride, what can I do? I've heard sub fram connectors, but not sure what to look for, or what I'll really get from it. Just replaced back shocks... what next?

[1NotSoBadAssBird]

anti sway bars, subframe connectors, performance springs, strut tower brace, performance shocks, bigger tires. Get all of those replaced and youd have a car that would make a porsche feel like a wagon.

[pcgame4life]

Any ideas as to what I should get first, how much it would cost, or a good brand/product to look at?

[Arctc Wolf]

subframe connectors and a shock tower brace will help you corner better, get a little better traction, and reduce nosedive during braking. shocks and springs would be next if you have a car with over 50,000 miles. if not over 50,000, then lca's and a phr would be good. lca's help traction and phr helps cornering. after that, bigger swaybars would help flatten cornering and traction.

[Vracer111]

Originally posted by Arctc Wolf:
subframe connectors and a shock tower brace will help you corner better, get a little better traction, and reduce nosedive during braking. shocks and springs would be next if you have a car with over 50,000 miles. if not over 50,000, then lca's and a phr would be good. lca's help traction and phr helps cornering. after that, bigger swaybars would help flatten cornering and traction.

How do subframe connectors and shock tower braces have anything to do with pitch/roll control? Springs are what control the sprung weight transfer of a vehicle and the dampers control the rate of that transfer. Subframe connectors and strut brace bars would be the last thing you would need to do to enhance handling. First three and the three most important components for handling for any vehicle are the dampers, tires, and Limited Slip differential. Bilstein HD or Koni SA dampers are good basic high performance dampers that work great for most people. A genuine 245/50-16 maximum performance street tire works great on stock 16x8 alloy wheels. IF wanting larger and wider wheels for more traction 17x9.5 wheels with sticky 275/40-17 tires are a great combination. Once the tires and dampers are on then you can get real benifit out of a limited slip differential. Helical gear type is great for very low maintenace and a clutch type is good for adjustabilty. Torsen T2 (helical) and Auburn Pro (cone LSD) are good examples.

Next in importance for handling would be the springs and sway (anti-roll) bars. Spring selection will depend on your tires and how you want the car to be balanced without anti-roll bars. If you plan on using very large anti-roll bars (for maximum transitional response - like for a mainly auto-x competition car) then you won't need as much increase in spring rate as if you were using mainly the springs with a smaller increase in anti-roll bar size. Good springs are the Eibach Pro-kits or Hotchkis springs. Word of warning on rear large diameter anti-roll bars (~22mm and larger diameter); they absolutely require the stickiest tires you can get to maintain adequate traction and keep the oversteer in check. Good antiroll bar size is 32-35mm front and 19-21mm rear, and hollow is preferable over solid as it helps keep unsprung weight down.

Once you are done with the above mods then it (might) be necessary for chassis bracing and strut tower bar (funny since 4 generation camaros don't use struts but double a-arms which don't need bracing as much as a strut suspension does). Chassis bracing would be more effective than a strut tower bar to help increase handling. Strut tower bar has to be the least effective mod in regards to F-body handling because it really doesn't do to much considering the dampers/springs just control suspension movement and aren't an actual arm of the suspension like a strut is.

Tubular panhard bars and lower control arms are good for increasing the response and stiffness of the rear suspension. Though that means it will degrade the rear traction slightly - stiffening up the rear end reduces rear end compliance with the road.

[Arctc Wolf]

the suspension will only work as well as the chassis allows. if the chassis flexes, the suspension isn't going to work as well during cornering. My very first chassis/suspension mod was a stb, and it made the car feel more responsive during cornering and braking. having done subframe connectors later helped cornering a lot as well. chassis rigidity went up a lot, meaning i could hold higher speeds going into and through corners than i did before. I would say that spending the $300 for both stb and sfc's including installation helped overall handling more for the dollar than any other modification i've done.

[StrtRacer98]

does anyone have a write up with pictures on how to install sub frame connectors? is it pretty simple?

[V6Bob]

Installation depends on the particular subframe connector. To do it properly the car needs to be sitting on its' wheels (otherwise you'll twist the car jacking it up and then lock in the twist). Most sfcs are welded in because the welds distribute the load much better.

Bottom line, most farm this job out to a pro. Maybe $50-$150.

[hockeyman]

^^I too cannot stress the installation procedure enough. You can buy the Best SFC's on the market, but they are only as good as the final installation. Once they are welded on, there is ONLY one way you are getting them off & that is with a grinder. You'll totally ruin the SFC's too once you cut them off and it's a PITA to do, so finding the right shop/person to put them in is Crucial!!

Bolt-in SFC's are fine, but if you want the best strengthening of the car's frame, go with the welded connectors.