Hey, I'm new when it comes to suspension work and am looking into upgrades. I don't drag but enjoy drift runs around here. My suspesion is bone stock currently and I want to move into some stuff to make her tired saggy @ss ride and perform better through the corners. What would be a good place to start!
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Brett Garret:
Hey, I'm new when it comes to suspension work and am looking into upgrades. I don't drag but enjoy drift runs around here. My suspesion is bone stock currently and I want to move into some stuff to make her tired saggy @ss ride and perform better through the corners. What would be a good place to start!<hr></blockquote>
Springs, Sway bars, LSD, Sub frame connectors, PHR, STB.. That should do good..Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6
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Drifting, i.e. like they do in Japan?
If you're looking to slide your *** around a lot try a 25mm rear swaybar.
Im not exactly sure what you're looking to improve.2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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everyone gets weird about how big the 32/21 1LE combo is compared to stock. drifting means that ur swinging the *** of the car around corners. I found that my 1LE swaybars help me do that easily w/ 255-50-ZR16 tires. starting with that should help w/ ur drift setup, then experiment w/ other stuff, but remember, the more u upgrade the rear suspension, the harder it will be to get the rear to swing around during a drift, so be sure to get more power out back as well.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!
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Lsd is en route. I'm thinking of the slp lvl 1 or is that not a great package? Basicly I want to keep steering tight as possible going downhill. I don't need much body roll. Weight control is the key in my drifts. On the side, I've almost got my feint drift down. (Where you throw all the weight into one front side then use it to pivot or throw the back end around.) Its called that because it looks like you're gonna go one direction then completely change.
Also, what's a good rim size and tire to look into. Thanks
[ September 26, 2003: Message edited by: Brett Garret ]</p><b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\"
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slp level 1 setup is good, bug get the 21 mm rear swaybar to help throw the rear out. a front stb will help stiffen the front up. wider tires will make it harder to throw the rear out. for sure, ur gonna want the front and rear tires sizes the same, and maybe make the fronts ZR rated and the rears YR or WR rated to make the front stick better and the rear break lose better. also, look into alignment specs for the front to get it to stick better through corners.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!
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Just to correct something Arctic said, the speed rating of a tire has nothing to do with its actual traction.2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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If you want tp make it easy to break the rear-end loose, make the rear-end stiffer, i.e., bigger sway bar, stiffer springs.Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dominic:
Just to correct something Arctic said, the speed rating of a tire has nothing to do with its actual traction.<hr></blockquote>
It has everything to do with traction.
The speed rating is based on a tires ability to achieve and sustain a certain speed level. This means having a stable grip on the road. The better the speed rating, the more grip and cornering response you will get.
The speed rating is definately a better judge of traction characteristics than is the "Traction Rating" which is based on straight ahead wet weather braking.
Also, if you want a tire to spin, max out the air pressure.
[ October 02, 2003: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]</p>1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AZ3.8Camaro:
It has everything to do with traction.
The speed rating is based on a tires ability to achieve and sustain a certain speed level. This means having a stable grip on the road. The better the speed rating, the more grip and cornering response you will git.
The speed rating is definately a better judge of traction characteristics than is the "Traction Rating" which is based on straight ahead wet weather braking.
Also, if you want a tire to spin, max out the air pressure.
[ October 02, 2003: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]<hr></blockquote>
The speed rating does not judge a tire's compound structure or tread pattern, nor does it focus on the amount of grooving per square inch of the tire. All it is focues on is the ability of a tire to withstand certain temperatures and rotation speeds under load without explosion.
There really is no dry traction rating for a tire, that comes from knowing tires, their compounds, and their grooving patterns.
However, generally speaking, Z rated tires will be softer in compound and willwe ar faster and be stickier than a T rated tire. This is not always the case, but it is some of the time.
[ October 02, 2003: Message edited by: Dominic ]</p>2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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