when i first got my car, i had almost no problem with brake dust, but when i replaced the pads, "O'Relyies Pads" the dust becasme a huge problem. it's staining my wheels and coating everything. I assume i should have bought better quality brake pads, but what should i get, and is that actually the issue?
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Bad Brake Dust!
Justin96Bird / Justin98TransAm<p>1998 Navy Blue TransAm<p>Whisper Lid<br />free ram air<br />K&N Filter<br /><a href=\"http://www.hhbc.com/justin96bird/index.htm\" target=\"_blank\">DynoMouth Exhaust</a><p><a href=\"http://www.hhbc.com/justin96bird/index.htm\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.hhbc.com/justin96bird/index.htm</a>Tags: None
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I'm having the same problem right now from Autozone special. I was told the GM Durastop pads are a lot better unless someone has a different opinion.Mark<br />Houston F-Body Member<br />Sick-Sixx Member <br />1996 Green Camaro 3.8<br />1/8 mile: 10.14@68.59<br />SLP CAI<br />SLP Cat Back<br />3.42/LSD
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Yeah brake dust is the worst. Every morning I go downstairs and spend a good 10 minutes cleaning it off my tires and wheels. :( Hate that stuff. I would love to get pads that didn't do that.<a href=\"http://www.saintsworth.com/z06\" target=\"_blank\">\'02 Corvette Z06</a>
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My new pads dusted alot at first. But done ok since. I bought what I was told was same as stock pad. But upond inspection they were not the same as the ones I took off.Keith - 99 'maro - White M5 - bumpstick and boltons - 13.65 @ 101 N/A
"I ain't too big to listen to the rumors, I'm just too @#$% big to pay attention to them" - Dr. Dre
http://seppo.hopto.org/
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i got the same problem only not as severe as some of u guys. I get lots of brake dust but only after like a week or more of driving. I clean my rims every week cause you can really notice the brake dust after a week. I usually just use a wheel shiner and water. I am getting new brakes though cause mine are really wasted now. One question, do all of u guys just get them on teh front rims??? i don't get any brake dust in the rear rims.2005 Chevrolet Corvette C6 <br />M6, Magnaflow\'s 14336<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/v6purplebird\" target=\"_blank\">C6 Pics</a><br /><br />Old car:<br />1996 Firebird A4<br />SLP Cold Air Intake<br />Magnaflow Catback Exhaust<br />Magnaflow Catalytic Converter<br /><br />George Mason University<br />CEIE Major<br />Pi Kappa Alpha<br /><br /><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/nsolano\" target=\"_blank\">Firebird Pics </a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by NSolano:
i got the same problem only not as severe as some of u guys. I get lots of brake dust but only after like a week or more of driving. I clean my rims every week cause you can really notice the brake dust after a week. I usually just use a wheel shiner and water. I am getting new brakes though cause mine are really wasted now. One question, do all of u guys just get them on teh front rims??? i don't get any brake dust in the rear rims.<hr></blockquote>
Front brakes do 70% of the stopping.\'94 Camaro 3.4<br />\"No, Starvin Marvin. That\'s my pot pie.\"
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i heard of some new pads that do not creat brake dust or something like that on the radio the other day i was like :eek: not sure if it was foreal or what i imangine they are expensive compared to others1998 Jet Black Trans-am M6 T-tops<br />\"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find: knock and it shall be opened unto you:-Matthew 7:7<br />Old car<br /><a href=\"http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome\" target=\"_blank\">http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome</a><br />NEW CAR<br /><a href=\"http://garnerebel.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://garnerebel.tripod.com/</a>
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Raybestos makes some ceramic type brake pads that reduce the amount of brake dust you will have. They don't completly stop it but it still helps quite a bit. I always use Eagle 1 All wheel cleaner. It gets rid of all that brake dust each time I clean them, I don't even need to wipe off the rims afterwards. Great stuff. But nothing will completly stop the brake dust. The only thing you can do is try to reduce it by upgrading your brake system. Drum to disk, Baer, wilwood brake upgrade, etc. Hope this helps.1994 Camaro<br />3.4L V6 Automatic<br />K&N FIPK&Gold Oil Filter,Ravin Performance Exhaustw/Dynomax MandrelBent3\"I-Pipe&S Pipe&Catco 3\" HiFlow Cat.,ASP Crank and High AMP Alternator,U.D. Pulley Set, Bosch Spark Plugs and Oxygen Sensors, Taylor Wires, B&M E.ShiftPlus, 160 thermostat,Zexel Torsen L.S.D., CSI Remote Mount Electric Water Pump & Temp. Controller & Flex Hoses, ALM. Drivshaft, Diamond SubFram Conn.<br />COMING SOON: 350 or 502 RAMJET ENGINE & Big Block Hood<br />NJ V6 F-Body Club<br /><a href=\"http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/\" target=\"_blank\">http://tristategm.com/NJFbV6/</a><br />Street Lethal F-Body Association <br /><a href=\"http://www.slfba.com./index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.slfba.com./index.html</a>
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Skullcamaro is right. thunderracing has a real nice set of Baer complete front brake system, with calipers, roters, pads, and 6 pistons... real nice!
http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1021
is anyone wants to buy them for me [img]smile.gif[/img]
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Hawk brake pads don't dust very bad, it would take about a week or so before it became noticeable. Also, the higher performance the pads are, generally the more they will dust. So, it's a trade off.Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350
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EBC green brake pads, they are made of kevlar and are more expensive then OEM, but almost no brake dust and they last longer. They are also supposed to preform better, but I did not see much of a difference. The benefits are well worth the price. They are available through mail order and can be easily found on the web.
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The rotors are put through a cryogenic soak process, it's like heat-hardening, only in the opposite temperature range. It's supposed to make the metal stronger at the granular level, so they're more resistant to warping, cracking, and grooving. So far, they've been great. I'm usually skeptical about wonder-fixes for stuff, but I had also read about match-grade gun barrels having the same process done on them, because it makes the barrels stronger, and also it allows them to heat up and cool down (and so expand and contract) more evenly, which makes them more consistent. So, I gave these guys a shot.
www.policerotors.com They have a link to Performance Cryo's website, which goes into how the whole thing works.Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350
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by ssms5411Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...5 days ago
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