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the stb helps in cornering, can feel a difference even at slower speeds, and ross, i like you ;)
merlin
merlin
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2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R -
they help... I noticed a big difference in my old 3.4L but not so much in my 3.8L, the 3.4L had alot of miles on it so the chassis is pretty worn...
Either way I noticed a differnece on both cars especially at low speeds, but speed bumps feel alot harsher...
the chassis of a car works like a 5th spring, and flexes and bends with turns, a stb, subframes and a cage all help to stiffen the car.
As for 3 point ones, I hear on 3rd gens they are rough, that people in autocrosses on sticky tires have actually put so much stress ont he point at the base fo the windshield it would crack the windshield.
Overall a good mod [img]smile.gif[/img]Comment
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I like you, Ross. Just wanted to tell you.AIM: escalier deverre<br />\'02 Pearl Blue Metallic RSX-S (daily driver)<br />\'98 Black Firebird<br />98 V6 turbocharged to 02 LS1 swap<br />\'02 LS1/4L60E<br />LS6 Block, LS6 Intake Manifold, Thunder Racing 215/220 .600/.523/115 Cam, Titanium Retainers, Crane Double Valve Springs, 125 shot NX Wet Kit w/ NOS brand Purge, True Dual \"H\" Pipe w/ two chambers and dumps, 17x11(rear) and 17x9.5(front) Black Powdercoated ZR1 Replicas on 315 and 275 BFGoodrich Comp T/A\'s (Street)/ET Drags/Skinnies on Weldlites(Track), 3.42/LSDComment
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I have read this as well--and heard horror stories about cracked windshields. The metal the center point connects to is designed to be somewhat flexible. Connecting the two strut towers together is fine (i.e. 2-point brace) but the middle part should be allowed to flex.Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
As for 3 point ones, I hear on 3rd gens they are rough, that people in autocrosses on sticky tires have actually put so much stress ont he point at the base fo the windshield it would crack the windshield.
In general, LT1 braces do not fit the V6. LS1 ones usually do.
Just get a 2-point that is listed for the V6--i.e. a Hotchkis or BMR.
I personally felt virtually no benefit from my strut tower brace... but I have every other chassis/suspension upgrade in the book so the difference I felt from that might have been a wash. A good idea in theory but it gets in the way of the engine bay and its a PITA to remove every time you're doing something serious.
I would suggest just going with subframes. A good set of subframe connectors make a huge difference. Its like night and day, it can transform your old, worn-out feeling chassis into a like-new, sturdy, solid ride. If you already have them, go for shocks/springs, sway bars, and the rear LCA's and panhard rod. Strut tower brace should be last on your list...Comment
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More importantly Stefan... do you like me?Comment
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;) Thats about how I feal about them.. save your money.. or get subframes..Originally posted by Stefan:
I have read this as well--and heard horror stories about cracked windshields. The metal the center point connects to is designed to be somewhat flexible. Connecting the two strut towers together is fine (i.e. 2-point brace) but the middle part should be allowed to flex.
In general, LT1 braces do not fit the V6. LS1 ones usually do.
Just get a 2-point that is listed for the V6--i.e. a Hotchkis or BMR.
I personally felt virtually no benefit from my strut tower brace... but I have every other chassis/suspension upgrade in the book so the difference I felt from that might have been a wash. A good idea in theory but it gets in the way of the engine bay and its a PITA to remove every time you're doing something serious.
I would suggest just going with subframes. A good set of subframe connectors make a huge difference. Its like night and day, it can transform your old, worn-out feeling chassis into a like-new, sturdy, solid ride. If you already have them, go for shocks/springs, sway bars, and the rear LCA's and panhard rod. Strut tower brace should be last on your list...
STB's are tempting because they are cheap and easy to install.. but they really dont do too much..
i am considering ditching mine cuase it pretty much feals like dead weight imo..Comment
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Subframes are a great mod, but don't get them if you want to autocross...Comment
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You should know the answer to that question as many times as I've banned your sorry ***.Originally posted by hawgs:
More importantly Stefan... do you like me?
No. [img]graemlins/slap.gif[/img]Comment
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im thinking about getting an stb not so much for handling, but hopefully to rid myself of some of those damn creaks and squeeks that I hear in my dash.... think they will solve that problem?\'01 Mineral Grey SVT Cobra<br />-former F-body ownerComment
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An STB will help stiffen the chassis some, not as much as SFCs. It's not worthless as some say, it's not fantastic. If you're looking for better handling/stopping flexing/creaks it's a useful addition to SFCs.
I've heard the stories about 3 point STBs cracking the windshield, but they're always "some guy". I've never heard directly from anybody who's cracked their windshield. It would be easy to do if you screwed up the installation, tho. Drilling/mounting the third point's gotta be tough.2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCsComment
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I like you Ross..... :D .. But then again I like most everyone...just some more than others.. ;)2000 Firebird. Whisper Lid, True duals, TSP mail order tune, Built Tranny , TCI 2800 stall verter, B&M tranny cooler, Eaton LSD, 3.42 gears. Current best ET. 15.232 89.09 MPH 2.175 60ft on stock 3.42\'s and open diff.<a href=\"http://www.geocities.cComment
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