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  • Does a PHR help straight line traction?

    I know what a PHR does and how it helps on cornering, but I have been wondering if it helps with straight line traction? I am wanting better traction off the line, and I already have lca's and a bigger rear swaybar. shocks aren't an option yet since I am wanting to get the LG Motorsports coil-over kit eventually, and I am considering getting relocation brackets and boxed BMR sfc's soon. does anyone have ne experience with upgraded phr's and if they help off the line, or can u guys prove that it does by a technical article or explaination? I don't wanna have to upgrade rims/tires untill I have to, since it costs a ton more than just doing suspension mods.
    2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

  • #2
    Yep. Everything helps straightline in the back, particularly when you tighten things up with a better PHR.
    1LE components are a good mix of straightline and cornering, and you don't sacrifice any "bind" if you stay rubber.
    <b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP

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    • #3
      would it be possible and safe to run w/o lower control arms for 5 mins? I'm asking because the guy who did my exhaust would weld on relocation brackets and sfc's for me, but doesn't wanna touch suspension. The Big O tires place in town let's me use their lifts and tools if I need them to do stuff 2 my car, but the exhaust shop is across town from Big O. would I be ok driving the car from the exhaust place to Big O w/o having lca's, if I drove like a granny the whole time?

      and with the PHR, I'd be getting an adjustable one since I'd do a Max drop witht he LG coil-over kit in the rear when I get it put on, meaning 2" lower max. I was thinking BMR adj. poly/poly, or should I go rod-ended to prevent bind?
      2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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      • #4
        I would definately not drive it at all without the Lca's, but why will the welder take off the factory lca's and not put on the new ones? Or do you have to remove them for him as well? Seems kinda stupid. At the worst if he wont touch them, drop it off the lift, roll it back, and put the rear on a jack and throw in the lca's. You dont need a lift for that.

        Cp

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        • #5
          I already have the new LCA's on my car. stock ones are out in the garage somewhere.
          2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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          • #6
            NOOOOOOOOOO, dont drive w/o LCA's! They are the primary thing that keeps the axel from moving front to back.

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            • #7
              yeah.. to be honest.. if you drove it more then a few feet with out lca's.. you would probably just leave your rear end a few feet behind you..

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              • #8
                ok, so I'll have 2 make sure 2 put the LCA's back on after they weld the sfc's and relocation brackets, and just hand tighten them till I get 2 Big O and torque them to proper specs myself.

                So the PHR will help me gain traction off the line as well as cornering, correct?
                2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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                • #9
                  Wolf! The PHR is a great idea, I installed mine at the same time I did my traction and suspension upgrades and have no regrets, I am very pleased with the upgrade. The SLP one is the one I have, its kind of hard to break loose now since I threw BFG 265-50-16 in the back. but before, the GY 245-50-16 would light up with hardly much effort. to tell you the true I love the way it rides and it handles, thanks to SLP.
                  Good luck with your project and you are going to feel like in a Gokart once you throw those SFC(lots of fun at the curves).
                  GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!

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                  • #10
                    WHOA! DO NOT DRIVE W/O LCAS. Take a look, they are an integral part of everything back there.

                    I guess I'm confused -- the guy will weld, but not touch suspension stuff? Go into the shop with him, raise the car, remove the LCAs, weld up the SFCs, the brackets, adn replace teh LCAs. Only 2 bolts on each, and "tight as hell" will work just fine -- should be a 50-80lb torque spec anyway.
                    -Rob
                    <b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP

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                    • #11
                      He's an exhaust guy, and owns an exhaust shop. he doesn't like doin stuff that he's not used 2. I might end up finding somebody else 2 do it. I put the things in myself, but I had all the tools 2 do it, only took 20 mins. I'll figure it out after I get all the stuff. I just wish somebody would have another BMR sale so I could get it all at once at a cheaper price.
                      2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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                      • #12
                        i think you SHOULD drive without LCAS! just dont forget to videotape it for me k? (j/k) ;)
                        I\'m so used to doing so much with so little, I can do anything with everything!

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