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Over at LMPerformance.com I've been looking at relocation brakets because I lowered my car a while back. I don't want to get any weld-on brackets because it seems like too much trouble. So now I'm looking at either BMR, G2, or Spohn. From the looks of the price I figure that the Spohns are actually weld-on, even though it doesn't say it anywhere. Am I right? What are your opinions on any of these? Thanks.
I would only recommend weld on. BMRs are bigger then stock so you'll need to use washers. I have BMRs now. If I was to do it again, I would probably spend more money and get G2s. They are same size as stock.
i have the BMR LCA's and relocation brackets(bolt-in) i didnt have a problem with them fitting or anything or having to use washers, the only thing is, is that they want you to cut your car!!! there is a little black bracket under there that holds the brake lines in place... so to get around this i just bent it a little without cutting it and just bolted in one side of the bracket and leaving the other side bent back a little, you cant see it unless your up under there looking at it and pointing it out... i've had them on there for a while and it hasn't move at all and btw when you look at the rear differential you can see the brackets and it looks badazz... i also have my car lowered approx 1" in the back...
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dojo2000: What are your opinions on any of these? <hr></blockquote>
Hype, a worthless mod. Your LCA are never "straight" anyway so why would you waste your money "relocating" them so they are parallel to the ground - when you're parked?
I thought the relocation brackets were so that you can maintain correct allignment when the car has been lowered so that you don't get uneven tire wear and stuff like that...
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TokFan: I thought the relocation brackets were so that you can maintain correct allignment when the car has been lowered so that you don't get uneven tire wear and stuff like that...
Do I have this all wrong?<hr></blockquote>
Yes, you do have it all wrong. There is no "correct alignment" for a LCA. You don't need relocation brackets. You've been reading too much BS and hype from aftermarket "performance" parts manufacturers.
On a lowered car, an adjustable PHR may be worth it, if the rear axle looks shifted to the right side, or you have 315s in the rear.
[ June 07, 2002: Message edited by: FirebirdGT ]</p>
actually FirebirdGT they DO help I can attest to that. I've personally had before and after comparisons on my car and it was a noticable improvement
1998 Arctic White 3800 V6 :mods: Whisper lid with K&N, SLP Cold Air induction kit, 50hp shot of NOS, KVR Front Brake Rotor blanks and KVR Carbon Fibre Metallic Pads (set of 4), BMR Strut Tower Brace, BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod, BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets, BMR Control Arms, BMR Sway Bars, B&M ripper shifter, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, H&R lowering springs, and Flowmaster exhaust: MORE MODS AND WEBPAGE SOON!!!
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by CamaroBoy3800: actually FirebirdGT they DO help I can attest to that. I've personally had before and after comparisons on my car and it was a noticable improvement<hr></blockquote>
Sorry, but that is a subjective opinion. There is nothing technical that I know, or have seen, that would show that these make any difference to anything.
"There is nothing technical that I know, or have seen, that would show that these make any difference to anything."
This is not absolutely true (never say never). The angle of the lcas affects the way the rear end steers when the car rolls. See Herb Adams, Chassis Engineering, pages 62-64, for details. Even though the rear moves up and down, lowering the car means the lca angle will always, in any given situation, point down more than if the car is not lowered, changing the roll steer in that situation. What is not clear is whether the changes involved in lowering the car are enough to make a significant difference here, or if that change is harmful.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by V6Bob: "There is nothing technical that I know, or have seen, that would show that these make any difference to anything."
This is not absolutely true (never say never). The angle of the lcas affects the way the rear end steers when the car rolls. See Herb Adams, Chassis Engineering, pages 62-64, for details. Even though the rear moves up and down, lowering the car means the lca angle will always, in any given situation, point down more than if the car is not lowered, changing the roll steer in that situation. What is not clear is whether the changes involved in lowering the car are enough to make a significant difference here, or if that change is harmful.
[ June 21, 2002: Message edited by: V6Bob ]<hr></blockquote>
so just because I didn't get you a precise technical answer I'm automatically wrong?
1998 Arctic White 3800 V6 :mods: Whisper lid with K&N, SLP Cold Air induction kit, 50hp shot of NOS, KVR Front Brake Rotor blanks and KVR Carbon Fibre Metallic Pads (set of 4), BMR Strut Tower Brace, BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod, BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets, BMR Control Arms, BMR Sway Bars, B&M ripper shifter, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, H&R lowering springs, and Flowmaster exhaust: MORE MODS AND WEBPAGE SOON!!!
I'm not in the argument, but I got my LCAs with brackets mainly to regain loss traction. When I lowered my car, I got alot of wheelhop. After I installed the BMR LCAs with brackets, it took out ALL wheelhop. I don't know if it was the LCA brackets, LCAs or both together that took out the wheelhop. I put em both on at the same time.
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