I took the car in last week to have a rather annoying noise looked at on the car. I can best describe it as a popping & sometimes squeaking noise when I go over bumps in the road, when there is a load on the front-end, etc. I was pretty sure it was the front sway bar bushings since I didn't grease them when they were installed. The shop took the bushings off & re-greased them, then re-installed them. They said that fixed part of the problem, but there was still a rattle that they thought might be coming from the front springs or shocks. They pulled the front suspension apart, re-tightened everything, and the car was fine for several days afterwards. Now, the noise has started again, starting w/a few pops every now & then, & now it's pretty much back to the way it was before. I really don't know what to do. I was told if it started up to take it back, but if they didn't fix it the first time, what makes me think they can fix it the 2nd time? BTW, suspension mods include 1LE front & rear sway bars w/bushings, 1LE endlinks & a BMR STB. The STB has been removed from the car previously to ensure that it's not the cause of the noise. If anyone has any idea as to what the problem might be, please let me know. Thanks.
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Noisy Suspension....Part II
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If you're talking about the creeking sound that occurs when you get in or out of the car, but isnt loud enough to hear while inside the car, I've got it too. I solved my popping issue with marine grade grease on the endlinks.
I would bet the creaking could be solved by greasing the rubber insulators on the swaybars' contact points as well - but this I have not tried.
How loud is the pop?2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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I would suggest having your upper ball joints replaced.- Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>
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Dominic, it's a noise that I hear while I'm driving, & it's really annoying. I have heard it sometimes getting out of the car or if I close the door hard enough, though.
Josh, balljoints have been another thought-but like I said, once it came out of the shop, it was fine for a few days, then it got noisy again. Also, the car only has 14k on her, so I hope they haven't gone out already!2001 Onyx Black Camaro M5-Totalled<br />2005 Ford F150 XLT 5.4L<br /><br />\"To make peace, prepare for war.\"
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They want you to bring it back so they make more money on you. Try removing the sway bar completely and then take a drive. Shocks/springs wouldn't make a noise when closing the door. Neither would the sway bar to think about it. My sway bar did make a noise when I accidently clamped a break line under the bushing and play developed. Both bars have been removed many times and not regreased. They are completely silent. If they fixed the noise for a short time then they probably used WD40 instead of heavy grease on the problem. WD40 wears off eventually, but heavy grease stays for a long time. Looks like they want the car back every few days. [img]smile.gif[/img]
Don't trust the shop. Most are crooks. Buy some grease and do the bushings AND endlinks yourself. Put tons of it on there. Make sure to use heavy waterproof grease.
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So your noise is coming from the front, Fin? I also have an annoying popping sound when I go over bumps, but it seems to be coming from the rear. I've taken it to 4 different places, including the dealer, and none of them could figure it out. If you find the problem or have any suggestions, please post. Thanks.Pewter 2002 Z28 M6<br />Black \'98 Camaro 3.8 M5 (Gone)<br />Silver \'97 Camaro Conv. 3.8 A4 (Girlfriend\'s)
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dom:
They want you to bring it back so they make more money on you. <hr></blockquote>
They haven't made a dime off of me...key word 'Warranty' ;)2001 Onyx Black Camaro M5-Totalled<br />2005 Ford F150 XLT 5.4L<br /><br />\"To make peace, prepare for war.\"
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It's gonna be enlinks or bushings related. Had the same problem on my wife's new blazer. Had to take the car in a couple of times before they found it.<b>1998 Firebird 3800 Series II, A4</b><br />Direct-Flo Lid,K&N Filter,DEE TB Spacer,TPS-TEC,ZZP Mini-AFC,Raised and Cutout Airbox 7mm,BMR STB & Boxed LCAs,KYB AGX Shocks,Drilled/Slotted Rotors,180* Thermo,2.5\" Catco Cat,Dynomax 2.75\" custom catback,Kumho Ecstas/245,Jet Stage 2,3.42,Edge Racing 2870 Stall,B&M Tranny Cooler,B&M Deep Tranny Pan,LSD,AAM Girdle,1LE DS,NX Wet Kit,MSD DIS-4,MSD Blaster Coil Packs,Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Wires,NGK TR6\'S gapped .045,ZZP UD WP Pulley,SLP Fan Switch,TT II\'s<br />N/A: 15.6342 @ 88.44 (On stock converter. Strugglin\' to beat it.)<br />Nitrous 50 Shot: 14.7463 @ 93.49
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ok ok i think i have an answer fo this noise, i took my car in for lowering, i lowered bout 2 inches but i didnt buy them i burned them, and then i heard squeeking sounds, and thump sounds, i wish i would of just bought them, so now im looking for just the rear springs anyone for sale
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Jlo is the pefect spokesperson for why you should buy brand new springs instead of modifying them with a torch or cutoff wheel. Sorry about using your misfortune as an example Jlo but I really think it's dumb and unsafe to go the cheap route and modify existing suspention parts instead of buying new ones.1998 Arctic White 3800 V6 :mods: Whisper lid with K&N, SLP Cold Air induction kit, 50hp shot of NOS, KVR Front Brake Rotor blanks and KVR Carbon Fibre Metallic Pads (set of 4), BMR Strut Tower Brace, BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod, BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets, BMR Control Arms, BMR Sway Bars, B&M ripper shifter, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, H&R lowering springs, and Flowmaster exhaust: MORE MODS AND WEBPAGE SOON!!!
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i used to have a real loud popping sound coming from the right rear of my car when i went over fairly decent sized bumps...i took it to the dealer and it ended up being there was not a spring isolator on the right rear, i guess they forgot to put them on at the factory, its all ok now!!<b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by CamaroBoy3800:
Jlo is the pefect spokesperson for why you should buy brand new springs instead of modifying them with a torch or cutoff wheel.<hr></blockquote>
Definitely don't heat them. That kills the hardness of the metal, making the spring have too much give. Cutting the springs is better, but you still don't get the flat surface like factory springs.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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