Tokicos are installed! (guide inside)

[serpint]

Just got the front shocks today (have been waiting 2 months now). Will be installed next week...so for those of you who want to know how they perform, I will have a pretty good description after driving 12-14 hours back home after installing them.

[ May 27, 2003: Message edited by: serpint ]</p>

[Dominic]

Write the review here! Please :D

[serpint]

I plan to [img]smile.gif[/img]

Also...does anyone know the size of the bolts that are used to mount the bottom of the shocks on the front? My front shocks didn't come with squat for instructions/mounting materials. Luckily I found a document about mounting shocks on 4th gens from someone who installed HAL shocks. Can't remember where I got it from (probably found it posted here somewhere) but here is a repost of the link for those that want to know:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/HALEibch.htm

I will probably try and follow the same procedure making adjustments for the Tokicos as needed. I will also make sure that my father and I record everything we do..maybe even get a video camera for it to make a video documentary.

**EDIT: fixed a typo**

[ May 16, 2003: Message edited by: serpint ]</p>

[slacker69]

Size of the bolts i dont know but i do know the nut takes a size 15 socket same as the A-arms

[serpint]

Installed the shocks and Eibach Pro-Kit on Friday of last week...I must say this car handles like a dream now. Its nice pulling out of S turn onramps at 70-80 and having the car level! Also of mention, after following this procedure, my car did not need a wheel alignment (even though I got one anyhow). So your car may or may not need one depending on various factors after installing your springs and shocks.

Anyway, here is the install guide for both the front and the back as well as part numbers for swaybar linkages and the tools you will need. Keep in mind, this was done on a 2001 Firebird, so your setup may be a little different. Also, if you are not comfortable using a spring compressor (they are potentially deadly) please do not do your suspension by yourself!

Tools:

(optional):
air tools (impact gun, wrench)
1 friend

(necessary):
2 Jack Stands
1 3-1/2 ton floor jack
T50 Torx socket
12mm socket
13mm socket
15mm socket
15mm deep socket
1 1' socket extension
1 universal socket extension
1 small screwdriver
? small tie downs
1 Spring compressor kit P/N: 27036 from Autozone
1 Hammer
1 Large, heavy duty screwdriver
1 large prybar (3ft or more)
1 can WD-40

Hardware:
Energy suspension swaybar linkage kit, P/N: 9.8125RC
2 Tokico front shocks
2 Tokico Illumina (5way adj) shocks

Instructions:

1. Loosen wheel lugs

2. Raise one of the front sides of the car up by a flat area behind the front wheel. You will need to raise the car up at least 18" (less may be possible, but this is how high up we did it). Place your jack stand right in front of the jack one this same flat patch (this is a chassis section so it won't bend).

3. Remove the wheel on the side you are working on.

4. Remove the brake caliper (note: the caliper bolts are put on using lock-tite red from the factory) and secure it using a coat hanger to the inside of the wheel well. There is a small two hole area almost right behind the shock that works perfectly for this.

5. Detach the swaybar. Expect the linkage to break (hence the reason to get the replacement linkages).

6. Remove the ABS brake line from its plastic holder using a small screwdriver. This is a pretty fragile thing and may break, if it does, just use a tie-down when you put everything back together.

7. Support the axle near the ball joint using your floor jack.

8. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint bolt, then remove the bolt.

9. In the engine bay, locate the 4 shock mounting bolts. The two on the passenger side bolts are pretty obvious. The divers side ones are right under the brake booster resevoir.

10.
For the drivers side:

Unbolt the brake booster. There are two 15mm bolts up near the firewall that attaches it to the car. Gently but firmly pull it off the mounting bolts and hold it aside just enough so that you can get the socket with the extension down to the two T50 torx bolts. Go ahead and completely remove these bolts and set them on the cowl to keep track of them.

Place the brake booster back over the mounting bolts to keep it from bending lines.

For passenger side:

Remove the two shock mounting bolts in the rear.

For both:

Next remove the two other shock mounting bolts.

11. Now remove the lower shock mounting bolts.

12. At this point, slowly lower the axle down until the shock pops free from the upper mount points. Then slide it out (BE CAREFUL OF THE ABS BRAKE LINE).


To remove the sping from the shock:

1. Place the spring compressors on oppossite sides at coil 2 from both the top and bottom of the shock.

2. Now compress the spring until it comes free from the upper spring housing. An impact gun is very handy here.

3. Remove the upper housing and plastic cover.

4. Find a place that you can aim the spring away from anything at all and then slowly (VERY SLOWLY) uncompress the spring. Once the compressor arms are loose and able to move around inside the spring coils (they might even fall out) then you have uncompressed the spring enough to be safe.

To install the new Eibach springs on your new Tokico front shocks:

1. Take the nylon locking nut off the new shock.

2 Take the lower spring plastic mount off the old shock and put it on the new one.

3 Place the old shock sleeve over the new shock, the bolt will slide through and then put the spring overtop of the new shock.

4.Using the spring compressors, compress the spring enough so that you can place the upper spring mount onto the shock and have enough room for 1 inch to be free above the nylon nut once its in place.

5. Before uncompressing the springs, align the shock mount bolts on the upper spring mount with the same side of the shock that it mounted on for the old shocks. Once this has been done, slowly uncompress the springs until their full weight is on the upper housing. Removing the compressors is there your hammer, screwdriver, prybar and friend will be handy.


Reinstalling the new shocks is the exact oppossite of taking them off. Make sure to give all the bolts one last tightening after each step in reverse just to be safe.


To install the rear Tokico shocks:

1. Put the back seat down and remove the back interior panels. The one for the spare locks the other one just pops out with a little bit of force. (side note: if you have cd changer pre-wiring, you will find it taped to the speaker wire on the drivers side at this time)

2. Pull the carpet from the back of the car towards the front just until you can see two foam blobs on both sides of the car. Remove these blobs, below them are the shock mounting bolts.

3. Raise the back end of the car by the chassis at least 18" off the ground, then support the car by the chassis using your jackstands.

4. Raise the rear axle up by the differential housing until the rear end is loaded.

NOTE: if you are changing out your panhard rod and LCA's this is also a great time to do them.

5. Unbolt the top shock bolt.

6. Unbolt the lower shock bolt.

7. Slowly lower the axle down until the spring falls out. The spring housing may fall out (only one of mine did). Be sure to keep this.

8. Put your new Eibach spring into the spring seats making sure that the top end of the spring matches up to the housing.

9. Putting in the shocks is the exact oppossite of taking them out.

[MrCoffee]

nice little writeup
thanks for the review!

[serpint]

Doh, forgot to mention..

These shocks are very nicely done. They are encased in metal (steel I think) and come with everything you need to get them installed. So far I love the things, they feel great on the street (they ride like I actually have a race suspension in them). They put those factory decarbon shocks to shame in terms of quality of construction. I already have approx 1300 miles on them and haven't had any problems yet.

[Arctc Wolf]

do they weigh less than the stock shocks?

[serpint]

A little heavier, but the overall construction is so much better...makes it worth it to me.