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  • Panhard rod question...

    I'm geting the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs and my question is; Do i realy need a panhard rod? Can the stock rod work fine? Or i need a adjustable one?
    Thanx for your help!
    ~S87 Black 99 Firebird~

  • #2
    just to be on the safe side, I'd get an adjustable one.
    2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!

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    • #3
      If it were me I'd go ahead a buy an adjustable panhard rod. I had to get one after my drop. Sometimes the drop does affect the way your rear end sits. If you're looking to save some bucks. Go ahead and do the drop. Then bust out the ole' tape measure and a plumb line.

      Hold the plumb line even with the ouside of your tire and measure the distance from the line to either the inside of the wheel well or the ouside of the fender on both your rear wheels. If there is a significant difference (or you're a perfectionist like me and 1/8" bothers you) go ahead and order you a panhard rod. BMR makes a two sided adjustable one for around $110.

      In case you didn't know the rod will allow you to shift the rear end left and right thereby centering the rear wheels on the body. It won't hurt your car to ride a little cockeyed for a few days while the rod is on order so don't worry about it. Good Luck!!

      ~Ryan
      1997 Sebring Silver Metallic<br />Camaro RS A4<br /><br />Mods:<br />Aluminum Driveshaft, Z-style hood, headers, B&B Cat Back, fan switch, BMR Suspension, Silver Gauges w/blue interior lights, Clear Corners and Sidemarkers, Power antenna, 18\"x9\" OZ Superleggera Wheels

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      • #4
        Thanx alot! Another quetion. When adjusting the panhard rod, how do i do it? Should the car be of the ground or it can be sitting on the ground.
        ~S87 Black 99 Firebird~

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        • #5
          Personally I'd get the springs first and see. If you cannot see a visible misalignment you should be fine.

          I would think it would be pretty hard to turn the adjusters if the wheels were on the ground.

          [ July 09, 2002: Message edited by: V6Bob ]</p>
          2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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          • #6
            Yes, you definately have to adjust the car with the rearend loaded. After you take off the old panhard (two bolts) loosen the two lock bolts on the BMR rod (if that's what you get) and set the rod to about the same length as stock. Put the new rod in, making sure the "nipples" are down on the bushings so that you can pump grease in, and bolt 'er on. LEAVE THE LOCK BOLTS ALL THE WAY LOOSE!!

            Now drop the car down (if you have rhino ramps or a lift this is easiest 'cause you can be under the car with the rear end loaded) do your measuring and use your hands to twist the bar in the middle. It'll push one end out and pull the other in. Keep crawling out and measuring, adjusting, measuring etc. till it's even. Once you get it perfect, crawl under the car and lock back down the lock bolts. Not too tight yet, Go measure one more time to make sure you didn't move the bar, then tighten 'em down with some locktite on the threads preferably.

            Lemme know if you have any other questions.

            Ryan
            1997 Sebring Silver Metallic<br />Camaro RS A4<br /><br />Mods:<br />Aluminum Driveshaft, Z-style hood, headers, B&B Cat Back, fan switch, BMR Suspension, Silver Gauges w/blue interior lights, Clear Corners and Sidemarkers, Power antenna, 18\"x9\" OZ Superleggera Wheels

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            • #7
              Hey Ryan,

              Do you go to school in Austin? I was thinking about doing an Eibach Pro-Kit on my car, but some of the Austin roads are already pretty rough on my car. Do you have clearance problems at all? I also have BMR boxed weld-in SFCs, so I'm almost afraid of getting high-centered on a speedbump some day if I drop my car!!
              Edward D.<br />1997 Firebird A4 - Black Metallic<br />SLP CAI, Decoma 3\" Catback<br />BMR SFCs, 1LE sway bars<br />some other stuff

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