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  • Floating front end

    Hia, I have the stock suspension, and at speeds around 70+ the front end is really mushy, making lane changes scary. Nothing is worn out or broke, just crappy stock parts I guess. What should I start with for a suspension mod? I don't care if it rides hard as a rock, I like stiff suspensions. The way this is now sucks.
    Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM

  • #2
    stiffer shocks and a 1le sway bar couldnt hurt.

    96 V6 A4 Camaro and 99 Z28 A4 Camaro
    Visit My F-Body Page

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    • #3
      Where dou you get the swaybar?
      Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM

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      • #4
        IF your looking to put some money into it and want it handling like rails..

        I'd get Bilstein HD shocks and a 35/19mm sway bar setup.


        then some springs(not sure what to reccomend)


        Front sway bar you can get at most race part websites.

        YOu have 28mm front and a 15mm rear sway(28/15) stock.

        Some "stock" upgrades to look into..
        older v6s had 30/17mm setup
        z28s have a 30/19mm setup
        some SS have a 32mm/19 setup

        If you can get a set off of someone parting out, or selling stock parts.

        1Le is 32/21mm setup.


        Best pricing I ever saw on bilstein HDs is www.bimmerparts.com
        -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

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        • #5
          PS 98+ v6 suspension is pretty soft but may be worth peaking under your car and checking your front sway bar endlinks. Its not uncommon for people to snap an endlink, and that will kill your performance.

          I broke a stocker, then I had to pick up a set of prothane, heavy duty endlinks. They were a nice little upgrade.
          -Eric<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mustangeater82\" target=\"_blank\">2000 NBM V6 Camaro 5-speed</a> T-top <i>converted</i><br /><b>14.467@95.45mph</b> <i>$0 in mods</i><br /><i>The member formerly known as MustangEater8251</i>

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          • #6
            "older" v6's (30/17) = what years?
            97 Camaro<br />160* thermostat, z28 shock/springs, 3\" Magnaflow cat, 3\" Magnaflow catback, LT1 disc/limslip/3.42 rear, SLP CAI<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/609893\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/609893</a>

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            • #7
              If there's nothing worn out in your suspension, try new shocks first. They're likely to fix the problem to your satisfaction.

              "1LE is 32/21mm setup."

              For the umpteenth time, this is flat wrong. 32/21 was a failed setup on the first few 1LEs, and was almost immediately replaced by 32/19 for 99+% of the 1LE cars sold. The first 1LEs were intended as track cars only and the change was likely due to racers saying the 32/21 setup was Not Fine and Good.

              A 21 rear bar on stock V6 or even V8 springs is _not_ the hot setup. On stock V6 springs, 19 may be too big. 1LE bars are designed for use with 1LE springs, and won't necessarily work well with other springs.
              2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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              • #8
                So which one is correct for my V6?
                Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM

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                • #9
                  "So which one is correct for my V6?"

                  I don't mean to be annoyimg, but I don't know.

                  Swaybars are very complicated, about the trickiest suspension mod there is. It's easier to say what's wrong that what's right. Race teams with suspension experts choose swaybars by testing, not by what their expert thinks.

                  I believe strongly, on stock V6 springs (bars must be matched to springs), a 21 rear is too big, and a 19 rear may be too big. I know you don't want a too big rear bar, it can spin you out in a difficult situation (emergency swerve, rain, etc.). A slightly too small rear bar means your car, cornering at the absolute maximum (how often do you do that?), will go around a corner a bit slower. Easy choice.

                  Try shocks first. If that makes you happy (and I think it will, unless something is worn out)....
                  2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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                  • #10
                    And if the shocks don't make you happy, maybe get the alignment checked too. A good alignment makes a huge difference in how the car acts.
                    Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

                    2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
                    Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

                    Go Sabres!

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                    • #11
                      "And if the shocks don't make you happy, maybe get the alignment checked too. A good alignment makes a huge difference in how the car acts."

                      Totally agree (I usually do with zlexiss :)). I think an alignment is a "must do" if you replace shocks.
                      2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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                      • #12
                        What about lowering it? If I am getting new shocks, I want to do that too.
                        Jessica :)<br />Kansas: There\'s no place like home...99 Firebird Blown/6lbs, Eaton w/3.42\'s CI headers Z28 Exaust<br />CAI, #36 injectors Intense PCM

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                        • #13
                          bad for dragging
                          2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

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                          • #14
                            I'm definately no expert here, but I noticed at around 150,000 miles that my Camaro would "float" a bit and I was getting tons of nose dive on hard stops. I too thought that nothing was worn out 'cuz the car would settle right down after the old shock-bounce test. Turns out that the stock decarbons had worn out so gradually that I barely even noticed. Granted, your '99 probably isn't at 150,000 miles, but it is ~6 years old. Things may not be working qite as well as you think they are. I know in my case, the almost bump-free roads I drove everyday in the California desert really masked my shocks' decline and I'd almost convinced myself to buy new sway bars and springs to fight all the body roll.

                            My point? Just 'cuz the shocks aren't completely dead does not mean that they are working at 100%. Installing my Bilstiens completely changed the feel of my car. Flatter cornering, MUCH less body roll, almost no nose dive, AND a comfortable ride.

                            Hey gurus! After good shocks, what would you recommend as a next upgrade for folks like Jessica and me?
                            1997 Camaro, Y87 Perf. Package, iRotor Drilled & Slotted Brakes, Bilstien Shocks, Custom drive shaft, K&N Filter, & Mobil 1 synthetic. 202+K miles and still drives like new.<br />-If you can\'t stomp \'em in the straights, kill \'em in the corners...

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