Gonna buy subframes and Lca's

[slacker69]

What brand do you think is the best for the money. Right now I am looking a BMR

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
What brand do you think is the best for the money. Right now I am looking a BMR<hr></blockquote>

SFC - BMR

LCA - 1LE (see the discussion about suspension binding in the Technical Database). And get the 1LE PHR too.

[black98V6]

bang for the buck.. go for bmr.. after that things get more expensive and the added benefit vs the added cost gets fuzzy.. yeah forgot that.. bang for the buck you would come out better with 1le.. as far as the poly vs rubber discussion.. I stay out of that..

[ January 23, 2002: Message edited by: black98V6 ]</p>

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by black98V6:
bang for the buck.. go for bmr..<hr></blockquote>


DO NOT get tubular or boxed LCA with poly bushings from BMR or anybody else. They are a waste of money. The discussion in the Technical Database, suspension section goes to great detail to explain.

[slacker69]

So i need to get the rubber poly combo

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
So i need to get the rubber poly combo<hr></blockquote>


No, you need to either replace the existing bushings in the stock LCA, or get the 1LE LCA.

[slacker69]

I dont understand arent the BMR LCA's better than the 1LE. I have ridden in my friends car who has all BMR includeing Tourque arm and it felt damn good and no squeaks he got the rubber poly combos on everything he could

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...c&f=2&t=000061


Just read this. I don't feel like typing it all over.

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
I dont understand arent the BMR LCA's better than the 1LE. I have ridden in my friends car who has all BMR includeing Tourque arm and it felt damn good and no squeaks he got the rubber poly combos on everything he could<hr></blockquote>


No, and I won't use any weld part in my suspension. If a weld breaks on a LCA you're dead. I have repeatedly asked questions of the "top" aftermarket companies regarding their quality control on welds with no response. As a Quality Manager in the OEM automotive parts industry I will not buy parts from many of the "recommended" companies.

You sound like you have not read the Technical Database discussion on binding. Everyone thinking of tubular or boxed LCA or PHR needs to.

[95silver]

"No, and I won't use any weld part in my suspension. If a weld breaks on a LCA you're dead. I have repeatedly asked questions of the "top" aftermarket companies regarding their quality control on welds with no response. As a Quality Manager in the OEM automotive parts industry I will not buy parts from many of the "recommended" companies."

If the welds are so poor quality, why has no one had a suspension part break? Tom Byrne runs 10 sec 1/4 miles on his tubular trailing arms, panhard rod, torque arm and has over 500hp in the engine :D . I understand you concern about quality control. However, the track record of these products has been A++ [img]smile.gif[/img] . Using stiffer suspension makes the tires grip harder. Those microns [img]tongue.gif[/img] of movement that the 1LE bars and factory bars with bushings experience to work properly :rolleyes: , are too small to cause any real danger. My car rides tighter and corners better :D due to after market suspension parts. It's all personal opinion anyway. If you don't trust the welds of aftermarket companies, then you don't have to buy their products :D !

[DominusEtDeusNatus]

Those poly tubular and boxed LCA are great for drag racing, but not meant for autoX. They will not make you turn better, but will get rid of some wheel hop due to their stiff design. Again, your cornering will suffer, but straight line will improve. Get rod ends if you want to improve both, but they are noisy and wear out. You can change the ends pretty easily on those though. I don't know how much the ends by themselves are. Spohn make good ones. The ones from BMR wear out faster then his I heard. Noone has ever broken one. People brake torque arms all the time, but never seen a control arm break. If you don't plan on cornering at the limit of the car then it won't matter, get BMR. My friend in his 941LE spun out real bad. He had Metcos and subframe connectors. His car was as stiff as you can get. So the tires had to let go and he messed up his front end. Read the above link, lot of info there about control arms.

[ January 24, 2002: Message edited by: Dom ]</p>

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 95silver:
[QBIf the welds are so poor quality, why has no one had a suspension part break? However, the track record of these products has been A++.[/QB]<hr></blockquote>

This position is not real world manufacturing in the automotive industry. The Big Three would laugh at me if I took that position. A history of no failures does not mean a quality product. Established standards and control of processes to reduce variation of from that standard is real world. None of the companies I have talked to have this. None of these companies would be approved by me for my company use, or the Big Three, as suppliers.

[slacker69]

Yall have convinced me to not get LCA's so now im gonna only get subframes and decdeied to buy a NOS kit

[FirebirdGT]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
Yall have convinced me to not get LCA's so now im gonna only get subframes and decided to buy a NOS kit<hr></blockquote>


Sorry, we didn't mean to do that. The stock V6 LCA bushings are too soft, and should be replaced. The best choices are 1LE with very hard rubber, or replace the bushings from ES, for High Perf street or autocross, OR non-welded boxed like from Hotchkis for drag racing.

[slacker69]

Think I will like the Nos better