I installed the 1LE front and rear sway bars and panhard rod, and rear Bilstein HDs. It handles like a new car. There's a section of road a few miles from my place, before, I could only do about 40-50 through it, because of the combination of curves, and bumps. Today, with the new parts on, I went through it at 75 with no problem. The car rides a lot more firmly, no roll when changing lanes, etc., still a bit of roll on hard turns, but much better than before. Nose-in from braking is less, and the rear-end doesn't skip around like it used to. Straight-line acceleration is also improved. I was concerned that the set-up might make the ride too stiff, but actually, it rides better, because it doesn't bounce around over all of the bumps on the road. I'll be putting V8 springs and HDs on the front this Saturday, and let you know how they work out.
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Installed 1LEs and rear Bilsteins today......
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Installed 1LEs and rear Bilsteins today......
Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350Tags: None
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Sweet. Thanks for the heads up man. I have my 1LE's on the way as we speak, and I've been looking into shocks to go w/ (what I hope is soon) an Eibach lowering spring kit. Maybe the Blistein's are the way to go. Lemme know when you get the front done. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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$334, including shipping, and tax from shox.xom. I had to pay sales tax because shox.com is in California.
Dewey, it took about three and a half hours to do the install, but that was taking my time. For the rear shocks, you will need the wrench for the nut, and you will also need a wrench to hold the shock strut. You'll see the thing on the tip of the strut for that. It took me a few minutes to find that. Also, the bottom nut on the shock is SAE, the top is Metric, the stock shocks and Bilsteins use different size bolts, and the Bilsteins use an Allen key to hold the strut when you're putting the nut on.
Oh yeah, and you'll laugh when you compare the size of the stock shocks to the Bilsteins.
[ April 19, 2002: Message edited by: Guardsman ]
[ April 19, 2002: Message edited by: Guardsman ]</p>Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350
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