Subframe Connectors and Strut Tower Brace ?

[The Sandman]

I was looking around here, but I got confused quick... I have no idea what brand is good or what one would be good, etc.
Any help would be appreciated!? :eek:

[Dominic]

For strut tower braces most everyone loves their BMR. Its inexpensive and works very well for the duty it sees, plus its clean looking under the hood and feels beefy [img]smile.gif[/img] .

Most 4th Gen owners also agree the BMR or Hotchkis 2 point subframe connectors are sufficient. If you want bolt on I would suggest http://www.spectaclesolutions.com, they offer the best bolt ons around.

[JAM]

I would use the BMR for the shock tower brace. It is about the most in-expensive one you can get, funcitions well, and looks good too.

For the sub-frames. Just depeneds how much work you want to do. If you can weld get the 2pt like Domnic sugested. BMR makes a good boxed one, and tubular verison as well. More than enough strenth in those.

If you choose a bolt in. I like the set SLP has. (Just my preferance) You can find them on LM performance's web-site. If you get bolt in's they are easier to install. I would sugest using loctite so the bolts don't come loose.

Hope that helps. ;)

[NBMA4V6]

bolt in subframes are a good idea but no matter how tight you get the bolts they still wont be as strong as weld ins

i would have to agree. BMR STB is bad *** very nice differnce in handling

and i have BMR SFC's that are going on the car soon. im lookin at them in the corner of my room now ;)

[ November 26, 2002: Message edited by: NBMA4V6 ]</p>

[Only4U]

i've heard sfc's don't do much for hardtops...t-tops and verts they help a lot though...

[StockV6Cam2]

I heard they actually help out traction while launching though. Not only cornering. I should be getting my silver BMR STB and SFC's tomorrow so I can give you my opinions on both after this weekend! :D

[V6Bob]

There's not much difference between sfcs and stbs. They're metal braces and it would take a lot of difference to be noticeable. The only thing that can be screwed up is fit, and the name brands are usually pretty good.

[StockV6Cam2]

Well I think there are different kinds of SFC's out there. Aren't there the standard kind that just link up from front to rear subframe and then those that do that and hook together? Like the KBDD's you have in your sig.

[Arctc Wolf]

I noticed a huge difference in handling when I got my BMR stb put on. no noticable off-the-line traction difference, but braking, cornering, and ride quality were all improved w/ it on. the only thing better than the BMR stb, would be the G2 3-point stb, but I only recommend this stb if u're planning on puting on sfc's at the same time or already have them on. 3 point braces, if used by themselves, have a tendency to crack the windshield under hard cornering or braking unless used in conjunction w/ sfc's.

[The Sandman]

Wow, thanks for the replies guys! [img]smile.gif[/img]

[JAM]

Sandman, if you have a hard top then I wouldn't worry about it. If you have T-tops or conv. then subframe con. will help. BMR is the way to do for the STB, unless you just want something that is more purty! lol

And no weld in's are not stronger. Trust a guy who has welded a few things... me.... ;) When you weld metal together it actually weakens the metal a bit. So welds can crack.

The only differance between weld in's and the bolt on's is the fact you have to weld them. If you choose weld in's great. Just make sure you have someone weld it that knows what they are doing. Again BMR makes some very good weld in's.

If not, and you get bolt on's the only advise I can give with bolt on's is put some loctite on the threads so they don't come loose, and or use stover washers. They are like half smashed so they do not back off. For these I would recomend SLP.

Personally I choose the bolt in's and used the loctite and washers. It is much easier to install yourself, and you don't weaken any metal on the car. Plus I didn't have to climb underneath and lay upsidedown on the floor with the welding tourch. LOL.

After all the point is to make the car a bit stronger. It's not like we are all making 6k hp with nitro methane fuel. :D

[V6Bob]

"Well I think there are different kinds of SFC's out there. Aren't there the standard kind that just link up from front to rear subframe and then those that do that and hook together? Like the KBDD's you have in your sig."

Yeah, theoretically the KBDDs spread the load better and should be stronger - why I bought them. In practice the simpler sfcs seem to work about as well. The KBDDs don't quite meet, there's a gap right under the driveshaft.

"And no weld in's are not stronger. Trust a guy who has welded a few things... me.... When you weld metal together it actually weakens the metal a bit. So welds can crack."

The problem is not the sfcs themselves. The problem is the bolts concentrate the load going to some pretty weak sheet metal, which distorts. The weld-ons spread the load out.

Good welds, done properly with the right materials and the right technique (involves how the heat is applied/taken off) can be as strong as the welded metal. Not many people are that good and professional, so in practice you are often right and welds are often the weakest part. Choose your parts manufacturer carefully :D . The problem is especially bad with chrome moly - welding that stuff right takes a real pro.

[JAM]

"The problem is especially bad with chrome moly - welding that stuff right takes a real pro."

Yeah, alumn and brass are worse. Like working with bubble gum. Lol! Weling of any kind no matter how good will weaken the metal a bit. Of course some jobs make it worse than others. LOL. It is a trade off really.

V-6 Bob is right about screwing into sheet metal. I forgot to mention that. If you use bolt on's get the ones like SLP that has 3 or 4 pts to bolt up so it helps to distribute the load. I think the KBDD has that too? Not sure though.

Either rate, good luck! ;)

[The Sandman]

JAM, thanks for the lengthy reply. However, you've confused me a little bit.
My car is t-top equipped, so would I need to get bolt or weld in SFCs? I'll probably go the BMR route with both the SFC and STB, so what would you suggest?

PS - I plan on getting the boxed and not tubular SFCs, if that makes any difference.

[blackbyrd]

does anyone have pics of the sfc's on there car cause i want to see them i was wondering something ill explain later but pics would be great!