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  • Strut tower brace

    So i am just about to order my STB and my Subframe Connectors and i see this kenny brown stuff. I want to use the SLP subframe connectors cause as far as i can tell, they are the only ones that can just bolt in. But i was wondering about the STB, cause the SLP is nice and cheap but the kenny brown is a 3 point, and the hotchiks is 2 bars, so i was just wondering it they are worth the extra money, or is it pretty much the same if i get the SLP?

    [ August 10, 2004, 08:23 PM: Message edited by: Ender2664 ]
    2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.

  • #2
    Don't go with bolt-on SFCs if you can help it. Reason being is in the physics. When stress and such force is applied to the SFCs the bolt and bolt holes and surrounding area will absorb most of the energy. With weld on it goes straight from the chassis to the SFC thus creating a complete hold. With the STB you can't go wrong with a 2 point for a v6. 3 point is for VERY high strain applications like slamming into a wall or pushing 400+ hp. Hope this helps. -B
    <b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\"

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    • #3
      Yeah thanks alot, but the STB is for turning and chassis flex, so if i am turning really hard, won't that effect the STB. So shouldn't i be thinking of what the BEST on will be because i am going to be turning it really hard?
      2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.

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      • #4
        Slamming into a wall!! bet you cant do that more than once...
        1996 3.8 A4 Firebird<br /><a href=\"http://bohicagaming.com/forums/mydir/members/OneManArmy/sbird1.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Pic 1</a>|<a href=\"http://bohicagaming.com/forums/mydir/members/OneManArmy/sbird2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Pic 2</a>|<a href=\"http://bohicagaming.com/forums/mydir/members/OneManArmy/sbird3.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Pic 3</a><br /><br />Custom CAI, Flowmaster, Transgo shift kit/corvette servo.

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        • #5
          I would go with Slp, BMR, or Hotchkiss 2 point will be fine IMO. I think 3 point is overkill and $$ for our application. Again, thats just my opinion. Slamming into walls, some autoxers are just better than others [img]smile.gif[/img] .
          <b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\"

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          • #6
            Here's my opinion.

            For both sfcs and tower braces, the big difference is having one or not. The differences in strength between braces is so small that it would likely not be noticeable. I'd worry more about proper installation.

            The cowl of the car, where the third point bolts to, is quite weak. It won't provide much strength and some people think 3 points can actually crack the windshield, tho I suspect that's more an installation issue.

            I have wondered if a 3 point would brace the _cowl_ on a convertible, but that's a weird idea.
            2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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            • #7
              So if the thing is if the brace is there or not, would it be better for me to just save some money and go with cheaper Subframe connectors instead of paying 250 for the SLPs? Because i was looking at the Shopn, or however you spell it, subframe connectors and they don't make me lose any ground clearance, so unless there is something wrong with them or something alot better about one of the others i am just going to order those and the BMR strut tower brace from LMperformance. And just wondering, as you can tell i am going for chassis rigidy, is there anything else realitivly cheap and easy that i should be looking at to throw on the car?

              [ August 11, 2004, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Ender2664 ]
              2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.

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              • #8
                yes, put new sway bars on there
                - JT3<br />1998 Red V6 Camaro Y87 Y3F - J.E.T. Chip Stage II - Clear Parking Lights - Removed Grill - K&N - Whisper Lid - !FRA MOD - MAF Screen Removed - Pro 5.0 - Pacesetter Headers - Magnaflow Catback - 32mm Front Swaybar - And A System(bump bump)

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                • #9
                  I was told that sway bars weren't a smart idea unless i plan on lowering my car, which i don't plan on doing for a while.
                  2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.

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                  • #10
                    I switched from the Hotchkis 2-point to the LMPerformance 3-point and could tell a little difference. I used the money from when I sold the Hotchkis to get the LMPerformance one. I agree with V6Bob though, the real difference is whether you have one or not.
                    - Josh<br />If you have any questions or need installation pics/help, e-mail me: Viper98885@aol.com<br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/viper98885\" target=\"_blank\">\'93 Camaro Hardtop</a><br /><a href=\"http://Camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/01lincolnls8\" target=\"_blank\">\'01 Lincoln LS8 Sport</a><br />\'00 Yamaha YZF-R6<br /><a href=\"http://www.ftpp.net\" target=\"_blank\">Full Throttle Performance</a>

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                    • #11
                      Well, I'm not expert on the subject of swaybars. But I put a 32mm swaybar on the front of my car and it made a really big difference. I know it's not "recommended" because it's not necessarily safe to utilize the swaybar potential without all of the other components but oh well, I don't give a ****. I can handle my car just fine.

                      I didn't think springs were necessary for swaybars, I thought you were just supposed to have good shocks.
                      - JT3<br />1998 Red V6 Camaro Y87 Y3F - J.E.T. Chip Stage II - Clear Parking Lights - Removed Grill - K&N - Whisper Lid - !FRA MOD - MAF Screen Removed - Pro 5.0 - Pacesetter Headers - Magnaflow Catback - 32mm Front Swaybar - And A System(bump bump)

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                      • #12
                        I know it's not "recommended" because it's not necessarily safe to utilize the swaybar potential without all of the other components but oh well, I don't give a ****. I can handle my car just fine.
                        Ahahaha that's MY kinda thinking, although sometimes my car gets me in more trouble than I bargain for. Just be careful man, don't reach for the breaking point on the streets, save it for the track!

                        I have a 2pt BMR STB on mine and it does help a bit. I might swap it out for the more blingish Hotchkis model though. And the V8 guys don't even bother with 3pts on our cars so why should we?
                        2002 Black Firebird:<br />A4, Y87, W68, T-tops<br />Best NA ET: 15.16 @ 90<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02</a>

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                        • #13
                          i have a brm 2 point that i am trying to get rid of.. those things are dead weight..

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                          • #14
                            What color is it? I'm in the market.
                            <b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\"

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                            • #15
                              it was silver.. now its a dark red..

                              i dont think i want to ship it really.. its not too pretty becuas i repainted it.. I will probably jsut sell it localy.. unless you have a hell of an offer..

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