but I'll be using the Services garage lift here on base. I don't know which one to use though, the one that goes under your car or the one you drive on?
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Going to install LCAs by myself...
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you dont want any load on the suspionsion so the one under the car. have fun with the bolts... spray them with lub an hour before2002 NBM Pontiac Firebird Formula<br />Mods: stock...<br />1997 Chevy Camaro *Gone*<br />Mods:Borla,headers,Magnaflow cat, SLP intake, NOS 5175
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I had no probs with the LCA bolts. But yeah you want the one that lifts from the frame so that your wheels are in mid air. Only do one side at a time...just be careful and it will be fine.<a href=\"http://www.onid.orst.edu/~waltejam/\" target=\"_blank\">98 Bright Red Camaro</a><br />Too many mods to list....check my website
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I took the wheels off and it made it 100x easier. Also I found that it was much easier to have both a regular 18mm socket AND a 18mm deep socket, in addition to the 18mm wrench.- <a href=\"http://www.thenebula.com/carpics/pics2/camaro2.JPG\" target=\"_blank\">White \'99 V6 Camaro</a> (M5, 3.23s)<br />- 3\" Borla Exaust, RK Sport Induction Lid, Fast Toys Ram Air, K&N Air Filter, !Silencer, !MAF Screen, B&M Short shifter, Manual Fan Switch, 160° Hypertech Powerstat, BMR Boxed LCAs(rubber/poly), BMR STB<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=386884&page=1\" target=\"_blank\">*My Cardomain Website*</a>
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What everyone said. i actually found it easier to use a jack and jackstands for this. its an easy job, but once the car is on jackstands, i used the jack to start lightly applying pressure to the rear, to line up the holes to reinstall the bolts.
because the rear moves when the LCA's are off, i had to use the movement of lifting the rear to line up the holes.
easy job though. shouldnt take more than 2 hours max.
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lol i had to cut my front bolts off the LCA's on my firebird, cause they got stuck in the bushing, and stripped the tube right off the bushing when turning. they were frozen solid basically. i still have yet to tackle the rear bolts. btw let us know how it went<a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/hemigtx001/Firebird_Index.html</a> <br />1993 3.4L firebird<br />mods-flowmaster 80 series, removed cat. K&N FIPK. custom ram air ducts to filter.<br />Completed Engine Swap.
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Yep, before you torque everything down, be sure there is no load on the chassis. This meas either have your wheels and body fully seated. This would be done on a drive-on type of lift, wher everything is settled. This will help you avoid preloading your suspension.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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so your saying torque everything down after there is pressure like torqueing wheels or before?
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I'm saying you need to have the suspension all settles, and the weight on the tires before tightening the LCA's. It also says this in the instructions for most brands of LCA's. You ca still put them all on on the jackstands, but put it all back on the ground to tighten them. It will be a challenge to reach everything and tighten, but if you have a lift that you drive onto, it'l perfect.<a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!
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Yeah....what all these guys said....it's really an easy install, even with the wheels on. The wheels being on don't have that much to do with it. I have heard of people having problems with the nuts backing off the bolts, so you might want to check them every so often or use thread locker on them.2000 3.8L Firebird, Silver Metallic<br /><br />\"Yes, London. You know, fish, chips, cup o\' tea, bad food, worse weather, Mary f***in\' Poppins, London!!\"
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