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  • Cracked Rotors: Hard use-What to do?

    I have had the rotors on for about a year. The pads are Ceramix from NAPA. I just had new tires put on in December from Tire Plus with free lifetime balance/rotation. Just took in for 1st balance/rotate and they do free inspection. They showed me that my front rotors are cracked. They have hundreds of tiny spider cracks all over the face of the rotors :mad: . They were joking how I must have been doing some "triple digit speed breaking" and told me that my rotors are beyond turning to fix the problem. They stated that the rotors have never been turned [img]tongue.gif[/img] , true ;) . I can get Pep Boys rotors for $29.99 each. I was thinking of the cross drille and/or slotted from either Powerslot or the Fast Toys KVR rotors and pads. But since I drive fast [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] and break hard all day every day :D , I am afraid of cracking the crossdrilled rotors. Any personal experience on cross drilled rotors. What should I do.

  • #2
    I'd say don't bother wtih the cross or slots, and just get the pep boys or Advance Auto, Autozone, set. Lots of folks -- racers too -- have good luck wtih them, and you can't beat 'em for the price. Or you could get some LS1 (98+) front brakes ... those are killer
    -Rob
    <b>97 Camaro 3.8L M5</b><br />Car for sale<a href=\"http://terpmotors.com\" target=\"_blank\">terpmotors.com</a> Terrapin Motorsports! UMCP

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    • #3
      Rotors crack usually from heat. Id say get the cross drilled rotors the chances of them cracking or warping are VERY slim but its still possible if you heat those things up excessively. The only way it would happen is if you lock the brakes at highway speeds. If you go with the slotted rotors i hear they chew brake pads up alot more than the cross drilled rotors. If you want better braking and are willing to pay a little more get some cross drilled rotors.
      2001 Black S10 Xtreme 4.3L A4<br />*RedLineVSix*<br />\"Throwin sparks, draggin frame\"

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      • #4
        I will always, always, always stick to cross drilled factory rotors and factory pads. I've had many bad experiences with aftermarket crap. Every upside has a downside.
        \'94 Camaro 3.4<br />\"No, Starvin Marvin. That\'s my pot pie.\"

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jason:
          Rotors crack usually from heat. Id say get the cross drilled rotors the chances of them cracking or warping are VERY slim but its still possible if you heat those things up excessively. The only way it would happen is if you lock the brakes at highway speeds. If you go with the slotted rotors i hear they chew brake pads up alot more than the cross drilled rotors. If you want better braking and are willing to pay a little more get some cross drilled rotors.<hr></blockquote>

          This came right off the firebirdv6.com Modification Encyclopedia:

          Cross-drilled rotors are not perfect, however. Where the drilled hole meets the flat surface is a stress region that contributes to weakness in the rotor and can lead to cracking. Some companies chamfer the edges of the holes (grind them down to round the edges off) which aids in reducing the stress, but it is still there. Cross-drilled rotors are, all other things being equal, much more likely to crack than flat faced rotors are.

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          • #6
            You say you had the rotors on for a year, so I presume they are aftermarket?

            The cheap solution is stock GM rotors/pads, if aftermarket ones cracked. I've heard pf people warping them (torqueing the lug nuts right is crucial to keeping them in good shape), but not cracking them. The good solution is to upgrade to the 98+ brakes.
            2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs

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            • #7
              if you have a camaro, take your fog lights out and run pipes from the holes to the fenders and see if you can angle the outlet there to get some air on the rotors. Also The KVR blanks are supposed to hold up pretty good. They are thicker then the stock rotors. Brake pads and Lug nut Torque also has something to do with rotor life. Harsh performance brake pads may cause more stress and heat then stock pads.

              [ April 29, 2002: Message edited by: LMPerformance ]</p>
              <a href=\"http://www.lmperformance.com\" target=\"_blank\">LMPerformance</a><br /> <a href=\"mailto:Sales@LMPerformance.com\">Sales@LMPe rformance.com</a>

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              • #8
                How do you make the brake cooling ducts? I have factory fog lights and don't want to remove them, I like the looks [img]tongue.gif[/img] . Does anyone have these ducts?

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 95silver:
                  How do you make the brake cooling ducts? I have factory fog lights and don't want to remove them, I like the looks [img]tongue.gif[/img] . Does anyone have these ducts?<hr></blockquote>

                  I will be working on this this weekend so I will take a picture to show you them. I like the looks without the fog lights (Daytime) but at night i do like having the fog lights in. BUT GM wanted $75 just for the lens on my cracked one so I ditched them. Our project Black Z28 has clear courner lens and no fog lights and I think it actually looks better...

                  [ April 30, 2002: Message edited by: LMPerformance ]</p>
                  <a href=\"http://www.lmperformance.com\" target=\"_blank\">LMPerformance</a><br /> <a href=\"mailto:Sales@LMPerformance.com\">Sales@LMPe rformance.com</a>

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                  • #10
                    Can't wait to see the pics. Thanks :D .

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