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i posted yesterday about some parts i'm going to buy from bmr. it's a post with the title "are these parts a good idea?" or something like that. i didn't have subframe connectors listed. i have gotten several opinions that i should get some. i like the ones from bmr, the boxed weld ons, but i have a question for all of you with subframe connectors. was there a large noticeable difference in the car after they were put on. the other is that i had an accident with my car when i first got it. i popped a curb pretty hard and bent some stuff under the car. just behind the wheels the body seems to be welded and bolted to some of the subframe. do you think that it would be a bad idea to have subframe connectors welded on cause it would be bent a little and i'll weld the bend in? sorry for the long post. thanks a lot guys.
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2000 pewter firebird<br />Short Throw Shifter, Whisper Lid, Whisper Ram Air, Holley Filter, B&B Triflo, LSD, BMR LCA, STB, PHR, and sway bars (32/21).<br />Power window conversion -
well even if you were in an accident most everything should be in order under the car... but about the sfc's they are wonderful i have the bmr tubular weld in ones and they rock... the whole car feels a lot firmer and tighter in normal and hard turning... all around good mod [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
merlin2002 Firebird<br />2003 Yamaha YZF 600R -
I have the tubular mac subframes.. They were 109.00 and were a good mod.. Get the weld in ones..Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6Comment
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Get it! If I ever buy another F-body, it WILL be an LS1, with low miles of course. If it's stock, the first thing I would get are SFCs.
Well, I welded my SFCs when my car was around 25k miles. Back then, I didn't drive my car much. It never even sat through traffic!!! The only rough part was going uphill for school. It didn't even see much rough pavement. It had a very good "childhood". Anyways, right after I welded it on. I drove down the street and felt......no difference. Not until I romped onto the circular on ramp. THEN, there was a VERY noticeable difference. The car felt flatter and more willing to tackle the turn. B4 the SFC, my outter front tire would rub if I go a little too fast on that kind of onramp and felt like the car was literally flexing a bit. Now it feels solid thru the turns. Another thing it prolly did was prevent squeaks and rattle, giving the car more of a "quality" feel.
But I still had a little squeak on my HVAC area. So, I then got the BMR STB. for a week of two, the squeak was still there. Then it disappeared, never came back since. The car's front end felt flatter and the response felt quicker after the STB.
Definitely recommend SFC and an STB b4 anything else.
[img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]1999 Pewter Camaro M5<br />Y87 Performance Package, Sport Appearance Package, Diamond Clears<br />Factory SS Hood, Free Ram Air Mod, Whisper Lid w/ K&N Air Filter<br />CarSound Cat 94009, B&B Tri-Flo w/ Quad Tips<br />BMR SFC, BMR STB, KVR Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads<br />Black Painted Calipers w/ CAMARO Decal, 245/50 Dunlop SP Sport 5000<br />20% Rear 35% Side Tint, Red Reflective Inlays, Invincishield<br /><b>Young girls avert their eyes, weak men tremble, Ford dealers faint.</b>Comment
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I have the SLP bolt on's. They work great! Car is alot firmer, especiall over RR tracks. Weld in's are good too. Few things to consider:
1. Weld in's will :
a. weaken the metal when you weld, and welds can crack no matter who welds it. That is just the nature of welding.
b. Weld in's have to be welded to the thin sheet metal under the car, and are perminant.
c. Weld in's like BMR will give you more clearance underneath than bolt on's.
2. Bolt in's:
a. not perminent and can be removed.
b. The SLP version that I bought had large 7/16 bolts and huge tubing. They weigh 13lbs each x2=26lbs of added weight.
c. If you choose bolt in's use loctite so the bolts do not come loos.
Over all I am very happy with my sub frames. SLP makes a good product, easy to install, and work great. Just as strong as the weld in's in my opinion. Hope that helps.
[img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]Thanks, <br />JAM<p>02 Firebird GTComment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JAM:
1. Weld in's will :
a. weaken the metal when you weld, and welds can crack no matter who welds it. That is just the nature of welding.
b. Weld in's have to be welded to the thin sheet metal under the car, and are perminant.
c. Weld in's like BMR will give you more clearance underneath than bolt on's.
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There is nothing stronger than a weld, period. Will not crack if done right.
Nothing in metal working is permanent - its called a torch.<b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"Comment
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i read that sfc will lower the car if you get the boxed type instead of tubular. would that be a drop in the front or back... or all around?1999 Camaro Silver 5spd<br />Appearence Mods:<br />-Clear Corners -Tail Lights off a 93-96 Camaro -Painted Black Calipers w/ Silver Camaro Decal on front ones -Black Camaro Rear Fill Decal -Silver Camaro Front Fill Decal -Painted Silver Interior Pieces -RKSport Shift Knob<br />Performance Mods:<br />-Eibach springs -Whisper Lid -Removed MAF screen -Free Ram Air -Trans Am Dual Exhaust -3\" Cutout<br />Stereo System:<br />-Eclipse 8v Head Unit -Eclipse 87series 12\' Subs -Rockford Fosgate 800wt amp (subs) -MTX 225wt amp (highs)<p>AOL IM is jay eub, msn messenger is banks_2003@hotmail.comComment
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no, there won't be a drop, but there will be a loss of ground clearance. they stick out from the bottom of your car .75"-1". if you get tubular ones, they won't stick out.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!Comment
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