LCA Rubber/Poly or Poly/Poly

[FRENCH_CAMAROV6]

BMR Lower Control Arms Tubular w/ Rubber/Poly Bushings

or

BMR Lower Control Arms Tubular w/ Poly/Poly Bushings

What is the difference?

What is the best combo for everyday driving?

Is that a good improvement over stock?

[T-Punk]

yes, either one will be an inprovement over stock. i personally have never had a problem with poly squeeking, however it does give a "stiffer" feel that i enjoy but some find annoying. Its hard to say what would be better for you but from a performance standpoint poly is better, from a ride quality standpoint rubber is better.

[V6Bob]

The one thing I know is that you don't want poly/poly, especially with stronger lcas, if your interest is better handling. Think about what happens when the car rolls in a corner. The live rear axle stays straight on the ground while the body rolls. If the lca bushing can't twist slightly it binds up the suspension and the lcas (or the chassis)have to twist.

From Global West re poly/poly:

"When this type of a control arm is used on the street or road racing applications, the car's suspension is put into a bind condition during cornering and hard bumps. If you use this type of a control arm you will notice a harsher ride. This is bind.

Consequences: High speed oversteer and possible over stressing the suspension mount."

[ February 11, 2005, 11:15 AM: Message edited by: V6Bob ]

[FRENCH_CAMAROV6]

V6bob has spoken...
thank you, great explanation, so now my question is : LCA add traction but are LCA killing handling?

My next step is to change shocks/spring.(I need $$$)

My only mod is a BMR STB et 245/50/16 kumho.
My second question is:
is Getting BMR SFC a better idea than LCA for me?
My goal is a better handling, not drag racing.

[memphis_raines]

I have the BMR poly/poly LCA's and have had no problems with them whatsoever. Just make sure you tighten them to specs when you intall them and then hit them with a shot of grease 3 or 4 times a year and you should be fine.

[93camaro_zzz]

I think you guys are going a little over board on these LCA's thing. Poly/poly is fine. I understand everything V6bob is saying, and I have to disagree. if you enter a corner, and you think that the LCA's that have bushings(I say again, have bushings) are not going to give way, and it is going to cause the whole friggin car to flex, you are wrong. Poly bushings are hard, but under extreme load, they will give way a little bit. Now that said, I still personally think having a rubber/poly combo is better, just for the fact as it will perform right up there with an all poly LCA, and also will make the ride still factory. I dont care who says they dont mind a harsh ride... fact is evryone minds. When your out with your girl, and trying to make an impression, and your interior is rattling everywhere, I bet you dont think its cool. Jmo though. Good luck. ;)

[Coriya71]

I have rubber/poly and I don't know if it's in my head but I feel it's a smoother ride than my stock rubber/rubber. I like them.

[Little G]

poly est bon, mais rod-ends sont meilleures!

[FRENCH_CAMAROV6]

rod-ends? what is it?

[V6Bob]

"LCA add traction but are LCA killing handling?"

Poly lcas work fine as long as the car is traveling in a straight line, like drag racing, where their stiffness can add traction. No body roll, no problem.

"rod-ends? what is it?"

A suspension pivot consisting of a ball with a hole in it for a bolt, in a socket with a threaded stud for screwing into a control arm. See website below for a picture. The ultimate suspension bushing from a pure mechanical standpoint, flexible in all the right ways, stiff where they should be stiff. Purpose built race cars use nothing else, rules permitting.

Four problems with use in street cars. A good rod end uses costly and different alloys for the ball, the socket, and the outside piece which holds the socket (three-piece). The ball and socket have a teflon liner for lubrication. They cost more than anyone here would pay. Cheap ones are sometimes only two piece, low grade steel, and no liner.

These are good ones:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/nhbb1.htm

They are not remotely designed for street use. They're susceptible to damage from dirt, water, road salt, etc.

Rubber or even poly usually warn of impending failure by getting sloppy. Rod ends can fail without warning.

They pass on road harshness and vibration to the car.

They work fine in race cars that are cleaned and inspected constantly. Cheap ones in a street car run year round with normal maintenance practices are an accident waiting to happen. Ferrari and Porsche don't use them on their street cars, even though they could afford good ones.

[ February 11, 2005, 07:24 PM: Message edited by: V6Bob ]