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It seems after driving a newer camaro that my steering wheel has a bit of play in it. How would I go about tightening her up?
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<b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\" -
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Brett Garret:
It seems after driving a newer camaro that my steering wheel has a bit of play in it. How would I go about tightening her up?<hr></blockquote>
try using a screwdriver :D -
I have the same problem with my 97. I feel a little play in the wheel, and I'd like to get it tigher too.1997 Mystic Teal Firebird w/ T-tops<br />3800 II V6 A4<br />Custom dual exhaust, modified airbox, K&N filter, ground effects, more to come...Comment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>try using a screwdriver<hr></blockquote>
WOW, sometimes I think the boards are gettin more and more useless. ANYONE ELSE.<b> \'95 Camaro 3.4L A4 <i>Rikku</i><br />AutoX - Drift - Street </b><br />\"Sideways is faster.\"Comment
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Some people are getting the Rag Joint Eliminator. I'm not positive that this will do the trick, but it may help.
Do a search for 'Rag Joint Eliminator' and there will be a couple postings for it, in both the Autocross and Suspension forums.
I was thinking of getting this and the Y87/V8 steering rack with the tighter ratio.
-Andrew1998 NBM Pontiac Firebird - LS1/T56 Swap | Pro-Kit Springs & Bilstein HD\'s | BMR LCA\'s | LG Adj. PHR | T-top Conversion | <br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/battyv6\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/battyv6</a>Comment
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If you have play, most likely you have some worn steering parts from the rack to the wheels: tie-rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, steering rack. Best bet will be to diagnose the steering components and replace the loose stuff. Could be any of those, or a combination. A front end shop will usually check it over for a small fee ($25-30 or so). If you have them do the work, usually the fee will apply towards the work. If you do it yourself, you'll come out even or ahead by replacing only the necessary parts.
If you need a rack, the Y87/v8 rack is a good upgrade.
I keep hearing people say they are getting the rag joint eliminator, but I'm not hearing any good reasons why, in terms of the actual benefits to be had from it. I believe there is very little, if any, discernible play from an intact rag joint.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>Comment
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Why do people always want "quicker" steering ratios? It doesn't make the car handle any better. In fact, it can cause you to lose a bit of precision (and perhaps, some handling.) The slower the steering ratio, the better you can pinpoint exactly(I mean EXACTLY)where you want the car to enter and exit a turn. Slower steering also allows the suspension to more gradually shift its load. My Olds 88 can handle (I mean HANDLE) with its steering ratio, and suspension setup because I can coax it through the turns rather than forcing it.
DKComment
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Darknight:
Why do people always want "quicker" steering ratios?<hr></blockquote>
For me it's just personal preference. My car came with it. My truck and my suv don't have it. I like the quick ratio better for handling, although it's not as comfortable for cruising.
A quicker ratio is sometimes also referred to as high-effort steering, in the marketing literature.
High-effort means more road feel, or more input back to the driver, which can translate into better handling when you're in tune with the road feel of the car. (of course you can be in tune with the car with any steering ratio...)
Besides the road feel, I can navigate the corners better with small inputs to the wheel and not as much hand motion. But that's just me...
Otherwise I start feeling like I need to add one of those spinner handles to the steering wheel. [img]smile.gif[/img] Especially when autocrossing.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>Comment
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If you prefer the quicker steering, that's cool. I have driven a lot of newer model vehicles that I feel had too quick steering. It seemed to me like they were a bit too touchy(that goes for the brakes too.) I guess I kinda like a vehicle that gives that extra degree of certainty about exactly where those wheels are pointed.
Detroit has long played with throttle sensitivity to make slow cars feel faster to the average driver. I feel like they do the same with steering ratios, and brake sensitivity. If I want to turn abrubtly, i can still do so. I'd just rather not have a sneeze or cough send my vehicle careening out of control. Likewise, if I want to stop, I'm more than happy to put out the extra effort. I hate it when brakes grab too quickly (drives me insane!)
I love the way my car wants to stay in the highest gear possible for efficiency. Cars that continually downshift irritate me tremendously. If I want the extra power, I'll put the pedal down.
DK
P.S. And that's my take on driver input ;)Comment
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