if I found the spring rates for my springs (V6 H&R's) and the rebound for my shocks( KYB AGX's) how would I begin to determine the correct sway bar setup? is there some formula you would use?
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95 Firebird<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/\" target=\"_blank\">http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/</a> <br /><br />me on a good day------> <a href=\"http://communicatio.webblogg.se/images/wet_cat_113159625.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">linky</a>Tags: None
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Unfortunately, no. It's one of many reasons swaybar mods are hard to do right. Race teams don't choose bars by analysis, they use experience and testing. A NASCAR team will often be changing bars during practice for a particular race.2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs
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yup. got a little over steer like I wanted but I am considering a 35mm hollow bar on the front95 Firebird<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/673250</a> <br /> <a href=\"http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/\" target=\"_blank\">http://photobucket.com/albums/y217/andrewbrandon19/</a> <br /><br />me on a good day------> <a href=\"http://communicatio.webblogg.se/images/wet_cat_113159625.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">linky</a>
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"how would I begin to determine the correct sway bar setup?"
And
"got a little over steer"
There's your answer right there. Oversteer means your sway bar setup is _not_ correct. Oversteer (particularly in the dry on a car that drives in wet weather sometimes) is neither fast nor safe. It may feel cool to you, but do you want a badly setup car that feels cool?
"Corner exit oversteer ... makes the ignorant or inexperienced driver feel heroically fast. In some ways it's a pity that it isn't the fast way around the race track." Carroll Smith
[img]smile.gif[/img] You asked for my opinion. [img]smile.gif[/img]2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs
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Come on man, give him some hints on how to fix it then. We know you can help him, you are one of the suspension experts. Also i just noticed you got KBDD sfcs, how much did they help with the vert? Havent found another vert guy with them so thought i would ask cause my car is sloppy as hell right now.2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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"Come on man, give him some hints on how to fix it then."
Sorry. I've said it so much I just assumed everyone would know. He needs a smaller rear bar. A big front won't fix it, on an independent front /live axle rear car the front is mainly for roll control, the rear is for setting the understeer/oversteer balance.
"We know you can help him, you are one of the suspension experts."
Actually I'm just a guy like you who reads a lot and races computer simulations.
"Also i just noticed you got KBDD sfcs, how much did they help with the vert? Havent found another vert guy with them so thought i would ask cause my car is sloppy as hell right now."
They were a great change. The car feels a lot more solid, the dash shakes much less. But, I'm not sure that cheaper sfcs wouldn't have done the same. The important thing for a vert owner is to get some kind of sfcs and have them installed well. The chassis is just too weak. If your car is "sloppy as hell" you may need new shocks.2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS, BMR tower brace and panhard, KBDD sfcs, 245/50-16 GSCs
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