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Hi guys, curious about something...I'm replacing my tie rod ends; the stock ones don't have a grease fitting, but the replacement's do. Should I screw in the grease fitting on the replacement, or leave the opening as is. The reason I'm asking is that the grease fitting doesn't screw in 100%, it screws in maybe one turn then stops. That leaves either a big chunk of it hanging off or else I'd have to screw it in hard enough that it would widen the opening in the tie rod end. I know this is probably pretty obvious, especially to a lot of guys who work on older cars. Thanks for the advice.
ABSOLUTELY 100% Install those grease fittings!!!! Do NOT leave them open!!
If they are the fittings that came with the Tie Rod Ends, then turn them in as far as they will go. Do not overtighten and risk stripping the threads! Just go finger tight, then about 1/4 (or slightly more) turn with a wrench. Then grease those B-0tches up with a grease gun.
And it's not a one shot deal either, keep them greased at regular intervals, like at every oil change.
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
Ok, I went ahead and got the grease fitting put in, but now I've got another problem. The tie rod stud that sticks out that you hook into the steering knuckle, it won't rotate. I took a look at the old tie rod stud and it spins around fine, but the new one won't budge from it's straight vertical position. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?
Ok guys, evidently when tie rods are fresh out of the box, they can be a bit stiff. I put it in a vise and wiggled the end into the position I needed it, then installed it. The MOOG parts for our outer tie rods come with a little bit of grease for installation's sake, but you need to grease it up fully once you install them. The grease fitting is self-threading, just install it all the way until it bottoms.
Also, this was during the swap from v6 to LS1 rack and required the steering coupling as well. I just replaced the tie rod ends since everything else was coming off the car (coupling, rack, inner tie rods). I used the FASTRAX alignment tool to set the toe (camber & caster remain set, only toe changes on the rack swap). So now the car has the v8 rack and it handles nicely, if a bit stiffer. Lots of drama btw like flushing/bleeding/stripped nuts/removing pulleys/etc so if anybody tries to do this in the future, PM me or email: adnectere@hotmail.com for details
Hey guys. For starters I’ve always been a big car guy, I love all types of cars and can appreciate all types of engineering. I’ve always been a Chevy...
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
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