Just replace all rotors and pads

[jtaylormade05]

After completing this over the weekend...now my brake pedal seems to give alot more than before. I removed a little more than 1/2 the brake fluid and refilled afterwards...also when finished i keep pressing the pedal down to get the brakes back to normal. But they just don't feel the same, does this mean i have to bleed the system.

Also, small note but when i removed the caliper bracket the screws were a pita to get off...was i supposed to put some kind of locking stuff on the screws when i put them back on?

Thanks for any help.

[UDLOSE98]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

normally if you do rotors and pads together you dont bleed the system, but it couldnt hurt to try

[hockeyman]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

I removed a little more than 1/2 the brake fluid and refilled afterwards.

From where? The Master Cylinder or the brake lines?
It's always a good idea to re-bleed the braking system when installing new pads & rotors. It's not needed, but is good preventive maintanence.
I went to speedbleeders on all three cars we own. They allow me to bleed the system myself with ease and don't allow any air back into the lines. The only thing I need to worry about is keeping the master cylinder filled when bleeding the brakes. I bought them HERE.

[HeadyFirebird'00]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Yah bleed em

[BobbyZ72]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

I really doubt bleeding them is doing to make a diffrece, you didnt open the system and did not allow air in.

[jtaylormade05]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

I think i will try getting them bled and see if that changes anything...i now have a different problem. The brakes sound fine...but when i come to a complete stop at a slow speed (like rush hour traffic). the front end makes a weird grabbing sound...not sure how to describe it. This only does it when the car completely stops moving. Anyone have any ideas? could this be related to the bleeding problem.

[3.4 slow to go]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

new metallic pad sound, or the regular power brakes sound?

[BobDoLe]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Also, small note but when i removed the caliper bracket the screws were a pita to get off...was i supposed to put some kind of locking stuff on the screws when i put them back on?

Thanks for any help.

you're damned right you're supposed to put some kind of locking stuff on the screws!!!

if you install new rotors, when you put the caliper bracket back on, those two fat bolts NEED LOCTiTE!!

if you don't use loctite on there, the bolt(s) will loosen up, fall off and before you know it, your caliper is grinding against the inside of your wheel! i noticed on ls1tech that this is a common problem if you do not use loctite on those caliper frame bolts (never heard of it on the other 2 bolts on the guide pins).


the grabbing noise you're hearing could be the caliper locking up against your rims as you come to a complete stop, then breaking free as you take off. it is in your best interests to remove the wheels and apply loctite to those caliper frame bolts. hell, you could do one bolt at a time, rocking the caliper assembly up/down without having to even touch the guide pins.

[BobbyZ72]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

you're damned right you're supposed to put some kind of locking stuff on the screws!!!

if you install new rotors, when you put the caliper bracket back on, those two fat bolts NEED LOCTiTE!!

if you don't use loctite on there, the bolt(s) will loosen up, fall off and before you know it, your caliper is grinding against the inside of your wheel! i noticed on ls1tech that this is a common problem if you do not use loctite on those caliper frame bolts (never heard of it on the other 2 bolts on the guide pins).


the grabbing noise you're hearing could be the caliper locking up against your rims as you come to a complete stop, then breaking free as you take off. it is in your best interests to remove the wheels and apply loctite to those caliper frame bolts. hell, you could do one bolt at a time, rocking the caliper assembly up/down without having to even touch the guide pins.

HAHAHHAHAHAHAAH, this same thing happened to me, it drove me crazy trying to find what was bumping and grinding when i was driving. I went around my car pushing on it and was able to find that the break was loose riding on the inside of the wheel, this happend about a weekafter i installed new brake pads. I went to autozone, bought a new screw, and reintalled the brake. The new bolt had locktite already installed on it.

[black98V6]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Interesting, I have removed my calipers 3 times now and never used locktite on them and never had one back out, replaced rotors and pads a few months back (the third time I removed them) and they were good and tight, was a huge job to get them off. I did the same thing to the rears at least once and had to use a breakover bar to get those loose when I did the rotors and pads. I'm not saying it's not a bad idea but I don't think some people realize you got to really tighten down caliper bolts. When it comes to those don't be wimpy, unless you are using a big breakover bar to put them back on you aren't going to break the aluminum caliper or the bracket with just a 1/2 inch rachet.
this is all personal opinion it's your car do what you feel safe doing.

[V6Bob]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Note that putting Loctite (glue) on old dirty threads is not very secure. It's a better idea to get new bolts. I think Loctite makes a something (cleaner? primer?) for the old female threads.

Also, I hope you used a torque wrench on the caliper bolts. (That works better on threads in good condition, also.) These bolts have to transmit a lot of force to the chassis. On my car I wouldn't trust the "just get em real tight" method.

[CDNFB]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Out of all the uncountable brake changes that I have done, never, ever used locktight on brake attach hardware. Never, ever had any of them loosen off. Anyway, theres too much heat in that area (from braking) for locktite to be useful. I always use silicon and graphite greases and antiseize compounds.

[BobDoLe]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

Anyway, theres too much heat in that area (from braking) for locktite to be useful. I always use silicon and graphite greases and antiseize compounds.

Good point. The high strength Loctite is designed to lose effectiveness at 475+ degrees.
However, I would not say that Loctite is useless for the caliper frame bolt.
What threadlocking substance is on the authentic GM replacement bolt?

[99camaro-3.8]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

loctite is not neccessary. im a mechanic and have done numorous brake jobs. never once used any type of antisieze or locktite and never once has anything ever broken free on me. very simple concept. snug it up. make sure its tight. plain and simple. if its tight its not gonna go anywhere theres no need for loctite just make sure its tight

[jrschultz]

Re: Just replace all rotors and pads

loctite is not neccessary. im a mechanic and have done numorous brake jobs. never once used any type of antisieze or locktite and never once has anything ever broken free on me. very simple concept. snug it up. make sure its tight. plain and simple. if its tight its not gonna go anywhere theres no need for loctite just make sure its tight

I agree! I've done numerous break jobs on my cars and friends' cars, and never have I used loctite. Never has there been a problem. Just tighten those bolts down.