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  • Lower ball joint.

    For real, I did a search and had little help, however, some of the old posts didn't help TOO much being outdated.

    My suspension basically is torn apart on the passenger side ( meaning I've taken it apart completely except the strut/coil and it's awaiting it's new control arm. )

    However, the friggin' lower ball joint came out easy, but it's not going back in easy. Any advice? I have an autozone press, but none of the friggin' peices fit even with the F41 control arm. even my new one, so everytime I try to press it, it goes in at an angle ( sigh ), infact, I spent 4 1/2 hours on it and decided to sleep on it and see what you guys said.

    Edit: Can't take it to a machine shop if I do, my car will have to be jacked up for 2 more weeks.

  • #2
    Re: Lower ball joint.

    uh oh...u said strut

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    • #3
      Re: Lower ball joint.

      I have no clue but this weekend I'm doing the upper ball joint and lower with outter tie end rods. Maybe someone else who knows will post up. Because I might have the same trouble.Good luck
      08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
      96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Lower ball joint.

        well one trick is to put the ball joint in the freezer overnight so it will shrink, then if you can apply some heat to the control arm, not with a torch but you might be able to put it in a warm oven for a bit so it will expand then try to put it together.

        As far as the joint going into the control arm crooked you should be able to drive it in there and if it's a little lopsided just add some force to the side which isn't getting in flush. as you drive it in there it should straighten out. and keep driving home until the joint is fully seated. The best way I know to do this is have one person hold the arm place the end with the joint on some sort of good ledge and drive it in. A coulple of good whacks with a 3lb sledge should have it fully seated. Maybe some grease on the surfaces might help it slide in.

        hopefully some of this helps. if you are worried you should be able to bring it to any decent suspension place and they might do it for 10 bucks.
        -Brad
        98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
        2000 V-Star Custom 1100
        If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
        :rock:

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Lower ball joint.

          Originally posted by ssms5411
          I have no clue but this weekend I'm doing the upper ball joint and lower with outter tie end rods. Maybe someone else who knows will post up. Because I might have the same trouble.Good luck
          just out of curiosity do you plan on doing the control arm bushings also? seems like a waste not to do those while you have all that stuff apart.
          -Brad
          98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
          2000 V-Star Custom 1100
          If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
          :rock:

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Lower ball joint.

            I got it in...3 hours of compressing, stopping and compressing again and the son***** finally went in.

            Curious about the rear now with a Q.

            Is the F41 suspension the same in 94 and 98?

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            • #7
              Re: Lower ball joint.

              Originally posted by black98V6
              just out of curiosity do you plan on doing the control arm bushings also? seems like a waste not to do those while you have all that stuff apart.
              Thanks for the reminder, I 'll order some from checker today. Also is it necessary to have the ball joint press?
              08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
              96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Lower ball joint.

                it doesn't hurt but I perfer a good 3lb sledge, every time I have ever rented one of those it never got used because it either didn't have the right sized drivers (round tube piece to drive out/in something) or the C-clamp portion didn't fit wat I was working on.
                On a previous vehicle I stood there while a dude knocked out my lower joints with a hammer and drove in new joints and bushings while standing beside a press. It's up to you man.
                -Brad
                98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
                2000 V-Star Custom 1100
                If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
                :rock:

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Lower ball joint.

                  I picked up my bushings today 4 lower and 2 uppers $140 from checker. I didn't know they were that expensive but if it needs it I'll put them in, if not I'll take back the ones I don't use. Also picking up a ball joint press from them in the morning(free renting). Will start sometime Sat. after getting a nap from my 12 hour graveyard shift. And also I picked up a 3lb sledge. Thanks again for your help black98v6. Steve
                  08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
                  96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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