i want to upgrade the front sway bar should i go with addco or suspension technique or the summit brand. any feed back would be great
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new front sway bar
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Re: new front sway bar
None, go with the strano 35mm front bar. It is a custom hollow 35mm front bar he had addco make for him (email me if you want the web address for him). If you don't do that then a good cheap option is a SS/WS6 32mm hollow front bar. The reason to go with a hollow front bar is that it weighs less but still does just as good of a job as a solid bar. Now before you decide to go get a rear bar as well you should know that you will need to upgrade your shocks and springs first but we can get into that later. Just remember in most cases the stock rear bar is fine but after upgrading shocks and springs you will want one a bit bigger (like a stock V8 19mm).2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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Re: new front sway bar
i have eibach springs and kyb shocks and a custom shock tower brace. i just went autocrossing for the first time last weekend and i found out i really need a front swaybar, the rear was fine for now. where would i find a ss/ws6 front swaybar.
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Re: new front sway bar
yup, I would highly recommend talking to Sam. He will probably tell you that will should change out your shocks to something better eventually. The KYB's don't do a good job of controlling those springs. In fact bilstein HD's don't do a great job either unless they have been revalved. Also the shock tower brace isn't usually needed (kinda just added weight). Those springs aren't bad though but if you are going to really get into auto-x you will probably want to get some different springs like the strano springs or if you want something a bit better and adjustable you could get a coilover/weight jacker setup from ground control. You will be wanting a new rear bar after you get a front bar. Typically a 32/19 or 35/19 is a pretty neutral setup for a car that is driven on the street as well as auto-x. If you are going to be doing auto-x only a 21mm solid or a hollow 22mm is probably a bit better as the 19mm can feel a bit disjointed if you are running the 35mm front bar. Call sam though, he is who I always ask about things when I get stumped. He and I don't agree on panhard relocation but I haven't disagreed with anything else the man has to say (and I'm probably wrong on the panhard anyway).2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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Re: new front sway bar
Endlinks are not "needed" but they aren't a bad idea. There are plenty of good options, basically any poly endlink for our cars will do fine for you and last a good while. If you get poly endlinks tighten them down until the poly starts to bulge out slightly (about 35-40ft lbs)Last edited by T-Punk; 05-09-2007, 01:48 PM.2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
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