lca question

[loser]

i plan on getting umi lca's. and on their site, theres a section to get grease or not, now, is this a speical kind of grease? can i use any old grease i have around, or is this a certain kind?

thanks

[StiLlsMoKiN875]

Re: lca question

I bought the same type of LCA from UMI, the rep. on ebay told me that its just like any other type of grease, then I told him he wasn't a very good saleman, cuz i was gonna buy some before he told me, btw you gonna get the relocation brackets as well, I did and they worked out great.

[loser]

Re: lca question

thanks, i didnt plan on getting the grease.

i have no need for the relocation brackets, so no, i wont be getting them.

i just want my wheel hop to calm down so i can get back to the track.

[StiLlsMoKiN875]

Re: lca question

lol, well believe it or not UMI claims that the relocation brackets can shave 0.2 of your 1/8 mile times, but who knows

[Shirl]

Re: lca question

Lithium grease.

[loser]

Re: lca question

lol, well believe it or not UMI claims that the relocation brackets can shave 0.2 of your 1/8 mile times, but who knows

on a stock height car, i dont see it happening.



thanks shirl.

[T-Punk]

Re: lca question

What bushings are you planning on? Poly will bind if used for both sides. I would recommend the J&M 3piece poly. It's cheaper than rod ends, works better than standard poly, and won't wear out as quickly as rod ends. For a street car that takes the occasional trip to the tack they are a great option. They are available from hotpart.com. The only other recommedation I would have is to go with the stock LCA's and get the moog bushings for them, it will significantly reduce wheel hop. The LCA's themselves are not the cause of wheel hop but rather old worn out bushings. Bad shocks can also contribute to the problem so you might want to look at those as well.

[88gtman]

Re: lca question

Just get some Elbow Grease. You can buy it here.
www.kalecoauto.com

[T-Punk]

Re: lca question

Wow, I totally forgot about that site. I need to get some blinker fluid when they get more in :p

[TheGr8Schlotzky]

Re: lca question

has anyone tried the flux capacitor? I was thinking..if i stole a few million from bill gates and killed him, then bought one, i could use to go back to before he died and not get caught...what do you guys think?

[loser]

Re: lca question

What bushings are you planning on? Poly will bind if used for both sides. I would recommend the J&M 3piece poly. It's cheaper than rod ends, works better than standard poly, and won't wear out as quickly as rod ends. For a street car that takes the occasional trip to the tack they are a great option. They are available from hotpart.com. The only other recommedation I would have is to go with the stock LCA's and get the moog bushings for them, it will significantly reduce wheel hop. The LCA's themselves are not the cause of wheel hop but rather old worn out bushings. Bad shocks can also contribute to the problem so you might want to look at those as well.

thanks alot, i actually didnt even start looking at bushing yet. ill take a look at that site.

as for shocks being a issue too, im aware, but dont have the money at the time. my stock ones dont even have 50K on them yet, they need to be replaced, but they're not totally dead yet.

when you say the lca's themselfs arent the problem, is that why people just box them? i never knew that, interesting.

[loser]

Re: lca question

t-punk, can you order just the bushings seperate? or do you have to order their lca's?

are the poly bushing supplyed with umi's really that bad? i havent heard much about changing bushings, is the difference actually worth it?

not trying to down your advice, i dont know much about lca's at all, thats why im asking. thanks man.

[T-Punk]

Re: lca question

No they don't sell just the bushings you would need to order their arms. They aren't super expensive though. The UMI poly aren't any worse than anyone elses it's just that a solid poly bushing is simply a bad choice if handling is at all important to you. The reason for this is that they are so stiff that they don't offer the proper articulation required for this application and will bind instead. This bind can act similar to a large rear sway bar making the car more prone to oversteer. Sometimes the solid poly bushings will "pop" out of this bind condition if the force exerted on them is just right and will cause a the car to be very unpredictable at that moment. The stock arms actually don't even need to be boxed, they are quite strong in the direction that forces are exerted on them already. If you look at the bushings you have in them you will see that they don't completely fill what they are pressed into. The moog bushings completely fill this space and are made of a much stiffer rubber than the stock bushings. The stiffness of these bushings are will not have near the deflection of the stockers but will still allow for proper articulation through the turns. If you are trying to keep things cheap they are a great solution. As for shocks just do them when you have the money, you won't beleive the difference a good set of shocks will make in your car but post up before you do them and we can get you some info on those as well.

[loser]

Re: lca question

thanks a ton, you actually explained things instead of just typing 5 words like everyone else.

i actually might get them now, being the difference in price is almost non-existant.

as for shocks, i already plan on going blistien HD, and then thats pretty much it as far as suspension goes for a while.( power time ) stock springs will be staying, i dont want to lower the car.

[loser]

Re: lca question

are these the ones i would want then? http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=134

theres another one thats more money, but doesnt say adjustable, and then theres one that says adjustable, and its even more. its kinda confusing.

i just want plan non-adjustable btw.