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lakewood LCA
is lakewood a good company for LCA?
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Re: lakewood LCA
For a street car I haven't found them to make a good option. What are you wanting LCA's for and what do you use your car for?2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard -
Re: lakewood LCA
it is for street driving, and once here and there giving those ricer burner a view of my tail lights, just want to make it handle and take off better. btw who is a good SFC?bolt on or weld on? lol soo many questionsComment
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Re: lakewood LCA
there is a handful of people here with lakewood LCAs, haven't heard any complaints. I have UMIs myselfComment
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Re: lakewood LCA
unless you are having problems with wheel hop I would not get them for street use.Comment
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Re: lakewood LCA
once and while i do, thats why i am looking into LCA, PHB, and SFC, but i want pple input on the diff companysComment
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Re: lakewood LCA
can someone define "wheel hop"Comment
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Re: lakewood LCA
Companies don't matte that much to be honest, it's bushing choice that is most critical. The thing you must consider is that the rear LCA's reaquire a certain amount of articulation from the bushings. The only bushings that allow this are rubber, 3 piece poly ball, and rod ends. Rod ends just don't last long enough and are a bit to harsh (among other things) for street use. If you want to keep it as cheap as possible you can go with the moog rubber replace ment bushings for the stock LCA's which you can read up on in my write up I did here ( http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=80753 ). The last option is the 3 piece poly ball. J&M is the only company you can get this from ( on www.hotpart.com ). It will offer the proper articulation needed unike the standard poly bushings everyone else uses. The reason standard 1 or 2 piece poly bushings aren't a good choice is they will go into a bind condition in hard cornering causing the car to be unpredictable. Also this can cause the car to react like it has a large rear sway bar making the car very prone to oversteer. Now as for the PHB unless you are lowing the car more than an inch you probably won't need to replace it but if you do I would suggest the Spohn adjustable option that uses poly bushings rather than rod ends. As for SFC's any will do just fine but get the weld ins and have a good shop put them in. The only reason I can give you for going with 3pt over 2 point is if you are going to put in a tunnle mounted torque arm for some added bracing. I would recomend agains the short TA though as it can increase brake hop (brake induced wheel hop). Know though that if you ever get into auto-x'ing you will be bumped way up in classes for having SFC's. How many miles do you have on your car btw? If it's over 50k you might want to think about some new shocks.
Wheel hop-the feeling that an earthquake is attacking your rear end.2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhardComment
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Re: lakewood LCA
my cars got over 180,000...lol new shocks ar 177,Comment
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Re: lakewood LCA
I ran lakewood boxed LCAs for an extended time in my nitrous/bolt-on camaro.
They worked like a charm for my 60' and launching, but I definitely wouldn't suggest them for a daily driven car or a car you are worried about the twisties in.Comment
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Re: lakewood LCA
no i just want a lil better handleing and launches, so a 2 point SFC will be fine, weld-on of courseOriginally posted by T-PunkComment
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