hardly any brakes!

[devilsalmostfree]

ok guys/gals! got my 95 camaro up & running a few days ago, still not right, so i tore it back down, but anyways! i have no brake basically! i got maybe an inch on the pedal, have to stand on the brake pedal for it to actually do anything, all of the vaccum lines r/were hooked up at the time, so im just wondering y the brakes arent doing thier thing! now the rotors r a bit rusty & look like they could be turned, but ive never had brakes quiet like this, any help would be apreciated!

[devilsalmostfree]

Re: hardly any brakes!

oh yeah, forgot to mention, the e-brake might come up an inch, i doubt it, but doesnt engage!

[Choppers]

Re: hardly any brakes!

i wqould highly doubt its your rotors. are you sure you bleed the abs right? i think it has more to do with master cylinder or something along those lines.

[a-master]

Re: hardly any brakes!

ok guys/gals! got my 95 camaro up & running a few days ago, still not right, so i tore it back down, but anyways! i have no brake basically! i got maybe an inch on the pedal, have to stand on the brake pedal for it to actually do anything, all of the vaccum lines r/were hooked up at the time, so im just wondering y the brakes arent doing thier thing! now the rotors r a bit rusty & look like they could be turned, but ive never had brakes quiet like this, any help would be apreciated!

this might sound stupid but is there enough brake fluid?

[Archer]

Re: hardly any brakes!

you have no break pressure if the pedal is only an inch from the floor..

What did you do to your brakes? change pads? take the calipers off? you would of had to do something to your brake lines, master cyl, abs system, calipers, something to get air into your system. your vacuum lines have nothing to do with your brakes.
make sure your brake lines arnt pinched either.. tho ur other brakes would be building pressure.
More info on what you actually did so we can help you on your dilemma.

Archer

see below...

[Archer]

Re: hardly any brakes!





The time required to bleed the hydraulic system can be reduced if the master cylinder reservoir is filled with brake fluid and as much air as possible is expelled before the master cylinder is installed on the vehicle. Pumping the piston can evacuate the air from the piston cavities.
Power brakes require the vacuum reserve be depleted by applying the brakes several times with the engine off. Care must be taken to prevent brake fluid from contacting any painted surface.

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and keep the reservoir at least half full of fluid during the bleeding operation.
2. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, then it must be bled in the following manner, before bleeding any caliper:

2.1. Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. 2.2. Allow the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder piston bore until it begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port. 2.3. Connect the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder and tighten. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.


2.4. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder to purge air from the bore. Tighten the connection and then release the brake pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore.

• Tighten the brake pipe tube nut to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) .

2.5. When clear fluid flows from the forward connection, repeat steps 1 and 2 to bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl) connection.

1. Individual brake calipers are bled only after all air is removed from the master cylinder. If it is known that the brake calipers do not contain any air, then it will not be necessary to bleed them.

3.1. Place a proper size box end wrench, or equivalent, over the brake caliper bleed screw. 3.2. Attach a clear tube over the screw. 3.3. Submerge the other end of the tube in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid. 3.4. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold. 3.5. Loosen the brake caliper bleed screw to purge the air from the cylinder. 3.6. Tighten the brake caliper bleed screw and slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.

• Tighten the brake caliper bleed screw to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.) .

3.7. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second wait), until all of the air is removed. It may be necessary to repeat the sequence ten or more times to remove all of the air. 3.8. If it is necessary to bleed all of the brake calipers, the following sequence should be used: 3.8.1. Right rear 3.8.2. Left rear 3.8.3. Right front 3.8.4. Left front 3.9. Test drive the vehicle. Check the brake pedal for sponginess. 3.10. Ensure that vehicle exceeds 5 km/h (3 mph) for ABS modulator actuation (self-test). If after ABS modulation the brake pedal is spongy or soft, then re-bleed system until pedal is firm.

[Archer]

Re: hardly any brakes!

The time required to bleed the hydraulic system can be reduced if the master cylinder reservoir is filled with brake fluid and as much air as possible is expelled before the master cylinder is installed on the vehicle. Pumping the piston can evacuate the air from the piston cavities.
Power brakes require the vacuum reserve be depleted by applying the brakes several times with the engine off. Care must be taken to prevent brake fluid from contacting any painted surface.

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and keep the reservoir at least half full of fluid during the bleeding operation.
2. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, then it must be bled in the following manner, before bleeding any caliper:

2.1. Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe connection at the master cylinder.
2.2. Allow the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder piston bore until it begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port.
2.3. Connect the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder and tighten.



2.4. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder to purge air from the bore. Tighten the connection and then release the brake pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore.

* Tighten the brake pipe tube nut to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.) .

2.5. When clear fluid flows from the forward connection, repeat steps 1 and 2 to bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl) connection.



3. Individual brake calipers are bled only after all air is removed from the master cylinder. If it is known that the brake calipers do not contain any air, then it will not be necessary to bleed them.

3.1. Place a proper size box end wrench, or equivalent, over the brake caliper bleed screw.
3.2. Attach a clear tube over the screw.
3.3. Submerge the other end of the tube in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid.
3.4. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold.
3.5. Loosen the brake caliper bleed screw to purge the air from the cylinder.
3.6. Tighten the brake caliper bleed screw and slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.

* Tighten the brake caliper bleed screw to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.) .

3.7. Repeat the sequence (including the 15 second wait), until all of the air is removed. It may be necessary to repeat the sequence ten or more times to remove all of the air.
3.8. If it is necessary to bleed all of the brake calipers, the following sequence should be used:
3.8.1. Right rear
3.8.2. Left rear
3.8.3. Right front
3.8.4. Left front
3.9. Test drive the vehicle. Check the brake pedal for sponginess.
3.10. Ensure that vehicle exceeds 5 km/h (3 mph) for ABS modulator actuation (self-test). If after ABS modulation the brake pedal is spongy or soft, then re-bleed system until pedal is firm.

[traumadog]

Re: hardly any brakes!

Hey Archer - that pic kinda looks like some air cleaner assembly, not the master cylinder or ABS box.