Adjustable Torque Arm

[Blizzard242]

What exactly would I need an adjustable torque arm for? Different ride height?

[ssms5411]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

My UMI tunnel mount made a huge diference on no tires spinning, it justs grabs, coming of the line and chirps 2nd and 3rd. Also you can change the pinion angle to what your car likes so it does take off better. Also you lose the weight and stress off the tranny and the weight thing on the side of it. Mines either -2 or +2 on the angle, I forget.

[silVerSIXf-body]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

i've been wondering the same thing (PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong) but i think it has to do with changing the angle of the torque arm once you've lowered your car to get the correct angle back in the torque arm. and i think thats the same idea behind adjustable panhard rods. anyone else feel free to chime in and add or change anything i said.

oh and ssms, if you have the non-adjustable torque arm from UMI, its -2 degrees.

[Blizzard242]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

I was thinking after researching possible reasons why my car might have that weird thump when coming to a stop that it could be my torque arm bushing. Sooo I looked at some torque arms and they're not super overly expensive. I also have a shudder when braking that was explained as a possible bad torque arm bushing. Whatever, might as well change the thing while I'm upgrading everything.

I swear though, my 98 rides way lower than my 02. Worn springs or.. there's not a difference in springs between those years are there? I'm the only person after my brother/original owner to have this car and I know he didn't do any mods at all.

I think I'll start with the bushing then buy a torque arm after I replace my girlfriends bearings. The not fun press in style bearings. I am totally not looking forward to that.

[ssms5411]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

i've been wondering the same thing (PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong) but i think it has to do with changing the angle of the torque arm once you've lowered your car to get the correct angle back in the torque arm. and i think thats the same idea behind adjustable panhard rods. anyone else feel free to chime in and add or change anything i said.

oh and ssms, if you have the non-adjustable torque arm from UMI, its -2 degrees.

I have the fully adj. TQ arm, so I can either make it -2 or +2 , It was -2 but I think I adjusted it to +2 when I did the M5 to A4 swap. I always like to get adjustable parts,LCA's, Panhard rod, A arms , and TQ arm easier to make adjustments to the suspension. I'll have to check it out when it is up on the lift when I measure out the exhaust piping for the turbo.

[bigbrian442]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

The adjustable torque arm let you adjust the pinion angle. Doing that effects traction. The pan hard bar centers the rear in the car. Changing the ride height will make the rear off center and the adjustable pan hard will allow you to center it once again.

[silVerSIXf-body]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

ooh sorry ssms, didnt know it was adj. haa good luck with the turbo!
ooh ok, i get it now. thanks brian for clearing that up for me.

[ssms5411]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

No problem, I don't think they make the UMI tunnel mount TQ in non-adj. , now that I think about it, just a option with DS loop added.

[Blizzard242]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

Ok, next question.. Tunnel mount or transmission mount? Transmission mounted ones are cheaper but I'm assuming there's a reason for that. This tunnel mount replaces the stamped plate that has a hole in it for access to the stock S pipe clamp?

[ssms5411]

Re: Adjustable Torque Arm

If your car is not lowered go with the tunnel mount , takes the stress off the rear of the tranny and then you can take the counter weight crap off if you haven't already. The tunnel mount I put in had no problems with my 3" S pipe. You will have so much more traction you won't believe it. The only problem I made was I was still lowered and went through a car wash and got caught on the concrete coming out since it was a down slope. Started to go side to side and didn't want to have the rear end hit the poles on the sides so I backed up and gunned it a little. I could feel the car lift up and bang down with one of those sounds you don't like to hear from your car. Got home looked underneath saw it was bent. Jacked it up saw that it just chipped the UMI metal and bent the stamped metal hangers that attaches to the car. I used my mig and welded up a couple of spots and took it to a welder who wouldn't weld anymore on it unless I took out the front seats and console. but he said the Tq arm looked good and shouldn't go anywhere. Now it is raised and since it is bent it gives me more room. The thing that surprised me was the pinion angle was still the same since it is a 2 piece section that using poly bushings so I lucked out there too. They are solid peices of metal thats for sure. I don't think your lowered Blizz so go for the tunnel mount and make sure to get the longer bolts , their worth the $20, saves you the time trying to find the bolts, nuts and washers for them which would come out to around $15 anyways because their grade 8 bolts. I think it will only take you about 30 min. to hour to install the TQ arm and it comes preset to -2 degrees but is good to check it with a angle finder anyway. Habor freight $5 pinion finder.LOL Just make sure your driveshaft is at zero and you'll be good on adjusting the UMI one. If you get a poly trans mount just use rubber bushings to space it up, it worked for mine great made my driveshaft at Zero and no vibrations(none). Some pics on my Cardomainsite of it installed. If you get it, PM me if you have trouble but it is straight forward.