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For Sale: 2001 Chevrolet Camaro project.
Up for sale is my 2001 Chevrolet Camaro 3.8 in need of some TLC and help. I’ve owned this vehicle the past 18 years (since 2006) and it’s been very well taken care of and loved. Odometer registers just shy of 130,000 miles and it’s been garage kept for almost all of its life and stored every winter. I’ve babied this car and sadly it’s in need of some mechanical help that I simply don’t have time for. This could be an awesome fixer or a candidate for a LS1 swap because it’s super clean as pictures show.
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The BASICS: This is a *very clean* base 2001 Chevrolet Camaro with the 3.8L V6 and a four-speed automatic. I’ve got a photo of all the build codes available, but key features are manual windows, Bright Red paint, manual locks, and a T-top roof with two perfect panels that stow in the trunk.
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The GREAT: This car has been minimally cleanly modified with aftermarket parts including a Sony deck with AUX input, a set of red leather seats (driver’s power adjustment) grabbed from another Camaro ordered from Hawks Motorsports, 17-inch American Racing Rebel wheels with P275/4R-17 Sumitomo HTR Z II tires at all four corners, Flowmaster catback exhaust and Pacesetter short tube headers, K&N cold air intake, BMR Suspension front strut tower bar (currently off the vehicle), Spohn rear sway bar, a BMR thicker front sway bar. The car is also lowered 1.25” all around with BMR lowering springs and KYB shocks, and has a mail-in tune from PCM of NC. There’s also an SLP front grille insert, as well as new factory replacement spoiler and hood that I installed a year ago to replace the original hail-damaged hood and spoiler.
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The NOT GREAT: The car was running perfectly fine mechanically and as mentioned has been very well-maintained…but about a year ago a ticking or knocking noise started coming from the engine. I’ve tried to diagnose it, first by fushing the oil out and I didn’t see any metal shavings, though upon close observation the coolant seems gunky. The noise did get quite a bit quieter after changing the oil two times, but the noise is still there.
Prior to this issue, within the past 10,000 miles I’ve replaced all brakes, spark plugs and wires (MSD wireset currently installed), downstream 02 Sensor, ignition control module and ignition coils, and serpentine belt and tensioner. Oil changes done every 3k on full synthetic. Very few cosmetic issues like few thin scratches and chips on the bumper, the passenger’s side rocker panel is slightly dented with missing paint, part of the gauge cluster may burn out at times but come back lit, and the “ABS INOP” light is on but the ABS brakes do actualy work. Gotta love 2000s GM electronics. All pics taken right before the noise started happening.
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$2,000 OBO
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Located in SE Wisconsin/Milwaukee area, would recommend towing if possible.
Will provide CarFax and as much documentation from myself and go-to mechanic as possible. No major accidents at all, just two very minor bumps/fender benders that have since been professionally repaired. Includes a set of standard 16” wheels that came with the car at time of purchase. These stock wheels do have old Bridgestone Blizzak tires that will need to be replaced.
Thanks! Feel free to ask any questions you may have, happy to help.
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The BASICS: This is a *very clean* base 2001 Chevrolet Camaro with the 3.8L V6 and a four-speed automatic. I’ve got a photo of all the build codes available, but key features are manual windows, Bright Red paint, manual locks, and a T-top roof with two perfect panels that stow in the trunk.
---------------------
The GREAT: This car has been minimally cleanly modified with aftermarket parts including a Sony deck with AUX input, a set of red leather seats (driver’s power adjustment) grabbed from another Camaro ordered from Hawks Motorsports, 17-inch American Racing Rebel wheels with P275/4R-17 Sumitomo HTR Z II tires at all four corners, Flowmaster catback exhaust and Pacesetter short tube headers, K&N cold air intake, BMR Suspension front strut tower bar (currently off the vehicle), Spohn rear sway bar, a BMR thicker front sway bar. The car is also lowered 1.25” all around with BMR lowering springs and KYB shocks, and has a mail-in tune from PCM of NC. There’s also an SLP front grille insert, as well as new factory replacement spoiler and hood that I installed a year ago to replace the original hail-damaged hood and spoiler.
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The NOT GREAT: The car was running perfectly fine mechanically and as mentioned has been very well-maintained…but about a year ago a ticking or knocking noise started coming from the engine. I’ve tried to diagnose it, first by fushing the oil out and I didn’t see any metal shavings, though upon close observation the coolant seems gunky. The noise did get quite a bit quieter after changing the oil two times, but the noise is still there.
Prior to this issue, within the past 10,000 miles I’ve replaced all brakes, spark plugs and wires (MSD wireset currently installed), downstream 02 Sensor, ignition control module and ignition coils, and serpentine belt and tensioner. Oil changes done every 3k on full synthetic. Very few cosmetic issues like few thin scratches and chips on the bumper, the passenger’s side rocker panel is slightly dented with missing paint, part of the gauge cluster may burn out at times but come back lit, and the “ABS INOP” light is on but the ABS brakes do actualy work. Gotta love 2000s GM electronics. All pics taken right before the noise started happening.
---------------------
$2,000 OBO
---------------------
Located in SE Wisconsin/Milwaukee area, would recommend towing if possible.
Will provide CarFax and as much documentation from myself and go-to mechanic as possible. No major accidents at all, just two very minor bumps/fender benders that have since been professionally repaired. Includes a set of standard 16” wheels that came with the car at time of purchase. These stock wheels do have old Bridgestone Blizzak tires that will need to be replaced.
Thanks! Feel free to ask any questions you may have, happy to help.
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