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I have tried various types (xenon/krpton, and basic colored halogens) in the turn signal part of my clear corners. The only bulbs that will last are the stock 3057 bulbs.
Any ideas what may be causing the blown bulbs or how to fix the problem? Thanks.
I am not sure which brand you have, but I had all kinds of trouble with APC super white Kryptons from a store (the bulbs would blow out causing loss of turn signals). Numerous emails back to APC came up empty. I never touched them, used dielectric grease, etc. After about a year, after I vowed never to buy an APC product,I bought another APC set at a different store. I have had no problesm for the past year until Pep Boys was going to fail my NYS inspection. (different issue!)
I blew them all the time to, I just got the amber silverstar bulbs, they look good to and dont blow out. I got tired of changing the damn things every 3-5 days.
2005 Cavalier LS Sport M5<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615</a>
Mine blow.....but only in a automated carwash that i can tell or i hit a puddle and its big or something...i think theres a leak....its always my left bulb
left bulb blowing is a common gm problem. I see fbody's and vette's all the time with left bulb blow out.
2005 Cavalier LS Sport M5<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/firefighter8615</a>
2. Do you have a big sub(s)? I used to rattle mine to death [img]smile.gif[/img] Insulated my hatch and now i'm good.
good luck.
1997 silver Camaro RS<br />|T-Type Powered|<br /><a href=\"http://www.kwfbody.com\" target=\"_blank\">Looking for a local F-Body club in K/W, Ontario, Canada?</a>
Mine goes out a lot because my corner housing (behind the lens) is melted a bit where the bulb goes in place. I think moisture gets into there, and it probably moves around a bit too since it can't lock into it's place anymore. Maybe the housing for your corner bulbs has something similar?? It sucks since they're hard to see and get to.
AIM: Alientr8tr<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/583450\" target=\"_blank\">1998 Camaro 3.8L</a><br />Flowmaster 80-series, !FRA, Eibach Springs, KYB AGX, SLP sway bars, 3.42/LSD, Wings West kit, Z06 Motorsports, Silverstone Metallic paint<br /><a href=\"http://www.shift5.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Shift 5</a> - My Band
the real problem is that all of these aftermarket bulbs are higher wattage and such..
in turn they put out alot more heat
I switched to 3156 LED Bulbs off of EBAY and have been working fine ever since. If you do this however you will need to put a load resistor in right after the flasher under the dash board to make them blink again since the computer will think the bulbs are blown to do low power draw.
\"Why Race?? Because basketball, baseball, and football only require one ball\"
Don't have to install all of that resistor or whatever crap LEDs need to work....its already part of the bulb. I am using the red 194s as a replacement for my clear rear sidemarkers and they are great! A solid bright red, instead of a weak pink from a red bulb.
lol of course you dont in the rear side markers... those are 194 bulbs.. not 3157... the flasher doesnt check yoru side markers bulbs to see if they are blown.. it only checks the front and rear bulbs.. in the turn signals.. i am using 194's too in some of mine.. you do still have to install resistors if you switch the big bulb in any of your turn signal lights..
they recommend you put one resistor per side.. on our cars this causes the whole circuit to overload and you will blow fuses.. not even allowing your car to crank since the DTR lights are on the same circuit as the BCM trust me.. ive been there
\"Why Race?? Because basketball, baseball, and football only require one ball\"
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