running a 0 gauge wire in an f bod

[Reg Kmet]

hey guys, whats the best way for me to go about getting a 0 gauge power wire from my batt to the rear hatch? i know about the grommet, but the 0 gauge is a bohemoth!

[v6maro]

where that grommet is, move the wires to the side, and drill the hole a tad bit bigger, should work now.
-Steve

[Brian Dieckman]

What in the name of all that is holy are you running 0ga for? Just curious. You know you've got over 220 amps worth of pipe there, right?

I would love to see the system that warrants 0ga wire.

(I used to have a Soundstream Tarantula, it required 2ga and that was rediculus!)

[94-3.4]

Good luck getting that wire to hide. I would run it under the car and up through one of the grommets in the bottom of the trunk.

[Reg Kmet]

lol, well i plan to ran an MTX 8100D and an 6152, i was thinkin that 0 gauge would be overkill, but do you think that 2 GA will get the job done? i
dont wanna starve the amps of juice

and i doubt that 4 gauge will cut it

[MTMike]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Reg Kmet:
lol, well i plan to ran an MTX 8100D and an 6152, i was thinkin that 0 gauge would be overkill, but do you think that 2 GA will get the job done? i
dont wanna starve the amps of juice

and i doubt that 4 gauge will cut it<hr></blockquote>

What's the total nominal and peak wattage of ONLY the components pulling off the wire?

4 awg should be good for around 1600 watts,
2 awg should be good for around 2200 watts, and
0 awg should be good for around 2700 watts.

-Mike

[OneQuickV6]

Ok folks, the gauge of wire you need has nothing to do with the number of watts your stereo system is running....It is all about CURRENT! Check your amps specs and see how much current you are running, and IASCA and many other orgs have sheets that say what size wire you need. Also, over-killing the stuff with too big a wire? I don't think so! Big is better. Ask any pro.

[MTMike]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OneQuickV6:
Ok folks, the gauge of wire you need has nothing to do with the number of watts your stereo system is running....It is all about CURRENT! Check your amps specs and see how much current you are running, and IASCA and many other orgs have sheets that say what size wire you need. Also, over-killing the stuff with too big a wire? I don't think so! Big is better. Ask any pro.<hr></blockquote>

That's 100% correct, yet completely incorrect and uninformed at the same time

Simple electronics, man. Voltage (E) times Current (A) = Power (P) E*A=P. Current is directly proportioanl to power, and vise-versa.

1600 watts at 13.8 volts is 120 amps
2200 watts at 13.8 volts is 160 amps
2700 watts at 13.8 volts is 200 amps

I was just making it easier for him, since amps aren't rated in current. I know of alot of 500 watt amps, but not too many 50 amp amps.

Another way to look, is what is the total fuse rating of all of the equipment. You can go off of that and base your wire selection on that.

[bpipe]

that amp is known for starting on fire!!!!!!!!
so if i was you call mtx and tell them what you are planing to run and they will recomend somthing. I have seen two that have started on fire, one was under powered "starving for jucie and the other had to much. if i was you i would get another amp.... don't take the chance with your car. fire is a bad thing.

good luck

[Brian Dieckman]

That particular ampli"fire" (haha) had problems with the voltage sabilizing circuit. It wasn't able to handle severe spikes and dips in voltage and the circuit would overheat. It didn't have anything to do with having an inapropriately sized "juice line." The three instances I know of, the amplifier was mounted in an area that didn't allow for the heat to be disipated well enough, and all three ignited a piece of paperboard that surrounded a connector. No damage other than the amp itself) in any of the cases I've heard of. (There's not much of anything in an amplifier that's flamable. the fire just burned up the surround and a couple of LED's on the amp. It stopped there)

If you add up all the fuse ratings in your system and add about 10% and then fuse at the battery and splits, you should be fine. I agree on the "bigger is better" philosiphy.. I was just curious to see if he had some monster amp or something.

-Brian

[v6maro]

buy the JL audio 1000/1 and you'll have all the power you need.
-Steve