Is this the right fuel pump???

[blackFbird_98]

http://www.intense-racing.com/Mercha...tegory_Code=IF

If so is this a good Price?

[98 3.8]

I got mine for $60 shipped from Ebay, same exact thing. ;)

[Mighty Thor]

That's it.

[grayman]

good question. I know i have a guide on my site for swapping fuel pumps on the f body but that is just a cut and paste job and i have never done it myself. That guide mentions a racetronix kit that is specifacally made for f body cars but that kit cost almost $300 in some places. Other sites lits a whalbro255 pump specificaly for f body cars but they are much less money. I am not sure what the differences are between a standard (about $100 or so) whalbro kit and the much more expensive but supposedly compatible racetronix kit.

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

email zzp www.zzperformance.com and tell them you have f-body and you it get everything you need !!!

[98 3.8]

Originally posted by grayman:
good question. I know i have a guide on my site for swapping fuel pumps on the f body but that is just a cut and paste job and i have never done it myself. That guide mentions a racetronix kit that is specifacally made for f body cars but that kit cost almost $300 in some places. Other sites lits a whalbro255 pump specificaly for f body cars but they are much less money. I am not sure what the differences are between a standard (about $100 or so) whalbro kit and the much more expensive but supposedly compatible racetronix kit.

Does the F-body specific kit have a factory compatible connector? I know my non-expensive one didn't.

[grayman]

thanks for the heads up viper

as for 98 3.8's question...that is exactly what I am referring to. I know i will get it all figured out when and if i ever change my pump and decide not to spend the extra money on the 'specific kit' (which by the way does not sound all that compatible...things still need to be done)

I like having this type of very commen mod and repair figured out ahead of time. If it seems very common (lots of questions about it over and over) i make a page on my website so that we can all progress as a community and make the world a better place. [img]graemlins/dj.gif[/img]

[Mighty Thor]

I don't if it's a California thing or not. But my Fuel assembly is totally different from what Racetronix has. For one thing, the nipple on the bucket is very small and the hose or tube is also very small. And the pump is small, walbro does not fit properly. But I got it to work. Nothing was the same alright.

I panicked of course because I already have the thing out and the gas was fuming really bad.

I was tempted to rip the nipple off but decided to leave it be and connect it.

The Racetronix instruction doesn't say what glue to use. So I spent a great deal of time looking for one. I can't find a glue that would not get melted by fuel. So instead I fabricated a clamp. I worry though because I can still smell fuel fuming. By the way, before this I had BAP.

Thank goodness my FP is at 42 right now at idle. Use to be 44 but it went down for some reason.

Grayman, I hope your instruction is better.

[98 3.8]

I was looking at the kit in the link above and just noticed that it also doesn't have the tube that runs from the pump to the top of the assembly.

[grayman]

here is another set of directions.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/fuelpump.htm

some years are different than others i think as well.
I know for a fact that my 2001 plastic tank has the pump in a different location than (more to the rear of the vehicle) other years/metal tanks. this only makes me wonder what connections might be different as well even if I buy a full racetronix kit (with the optional and making it all rather a pricey affair Harnes Kit) because those are for v-8s and not v6 and there is some kind of diffence between LS1 pump and an LT1 pump so that yields more questions.

i think the main hindrence to knowledge is that there doesn't seem to be at this time a year specific V6 guide written up. some people just ditch the bucket, etc. and make it work however needed. I would like to do as viper suggested and call about an fbody walbro but i can only imagine that they will say something like..."it will work..." and then i get it and found out that in fact it will work...so long as I make it work with ingenuity.

by the way....from the racetronix web site they show what looks like and is labled as 'adhesive'.

[grayman]

I emailed zzpperformance. Zoomer shot an email back very fast. thanks man.

this is the reply when asked if they had a kit or compatible pump for f body cars. (they sell a walbro 340 by the way....sounds like similar capacity as 255)

The universal Walbro we sell will work in your cars but it is not plug and play. About 1/2 hour is needed to do the install. The Fbody doesn't have the venturi system described on our page.

Zooomer
Owner ZZPerformance.com

Well, even a racetronix KIT for the fbody requires 'a half hour to modify' because at the least the pump bucket needs to be clearanced on the inside (plasic tabs or something) and the lid needs to be cut and clamped and glued) so i am not sure what the diference is other than possible wire splicing required may also be required. which leads me to a second point/question.

from what I can tell our stock pump harness uses 18gauge wire and available for purchase (but not our specific car for sure) are aftermarket pump harness kits that use different (fatter gauge) wires in order to restore lost voltage to a stock or aftermarket pump. One such kit is made for LS1/Lt1 vehicles and it is a full blown kit in that it runs power off of the alternator directly to the pump and it comes with brass connectors and additional heavy gauge grounding wire. This is supposed to restore 1 to 2 volts to the pumps power feed which in turn ups the pumps output directly in terms of performance even so far as to "see a rise in fuel pressure at the rail of upto a few psi" over the stock pump power supply/ground wiring.
Also, durability asside, a walbro only supplies about 10% more fuel over a stock pump if i am reading things correctly.

I think for my neads if the stock pump did not cost SO MUCH MONEY i would just keep one on hand if and when the stocker ever breaks. but the stock pump does cost something like 300 or 350 bucks if i remember. Hence my interest is this topic.

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

ok ok ok i;ll do it up

1 cut hole over tank with dremel..... to expost the pump thing

2. pull pump assbly out (may want to take the wiring thing off hear before you pull it out it stop you from pulling it off the sending unit). it take's a bit of fustering but it will come out... without taking the fuel lines off.

3. remove the power plug for the pump

4. remove the hole pump holder thing (big plastic piece the pump is in.) then go far from the car and blow it up.... :D

5. get two 2 1/2 or 3 inch clams (might wnat ot get these in the store with pump in hand be fore you start you only need a little more then it take to wrap arounf the pump give 1/2 3/4 extra to be sure.)

6. get some fuel hose from auto zone READ THE SIDE O'rilly tried to seel me hose that said on the side of the hose "do not use in fuel injection systems.." get fuel injection hose it will say it on the side of the hose get about 2 feet....

7. get the 4 pack of clamps they have. to fit the hose ( i think i got 5/15th hose and clamp the would match it....)

8. put hose on the supply fuel line ( for the car) and clamp, this was a long piece on mine and had a little ridge on it i put hose all the up above that and clamped above it and below it.......

9. put hose on pump and and set in in the tank most of the way see how much extra you got and trim... i thoug hit would kink but i have alot of hos in my tank and its fine after you get it in there.....

10. after you have that right clamp to pump

11. install the wiring harness..

12. but sure fuel level sender is hooked up...

install in tank kinda tricky but after you get it in, the tank has lip that sticks up so if your low on gas the fuel don't slosh around an you stall... you have to lift the pump over this as you are setting it the tank or it will never go in...

it will take a few tries to get the pump in..... be for you bolt it down turn on the car and 1. make sue it primes and 2. make sure your fuel gauge still works!!

pros
i know if my car is really low on fuel now.... the fuel psi drops to 40 and goes up under load.... the car also stutter on turns
i filled up and put in 15.3 gallons out of 15.5 [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] lol

cons
my fuel gauge is off more now but i use the milage thing anyway lol

[ September 28, 2005, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: viper04af ]

[grayman]

thanks viper.

I had not noticed in any instructions that additional fuel hose is required. good to know.

i had also been wondeing about how a walbro would effect the fuel level sender/gas gauge.

[98 3.8]

When I did my install, the first time I put it back in the gauge read full empty and I knew I had 1/2 tank left. I pulled the sender unit back out and looked it over and it all looked fine. Put it back in and gas gauge started working again.

Changing the pump should not affect how well the gauge works, as it uses a sensor that measures the angle the sender arm is floating at.

So I'm guessing I snagged it somehow first time in. Just have to be careful and make sure it goes in easy when you're putting the assembly back in. You shouldn't have to force it at any point.

[RGB]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by viper04af:
[QB] ok ok ok i;ll do it up
...

4. remove the hole pump holder thing (big plastic piece the pump is in.) then go far from the car and blow it up.... :D

...
pros
i know if my car is really low on fuel now.... the fuel psi drops to 40 and goes up under load.... the car also stutter on turns
i filled up and put in 15.3 gallons out of 15.5 [img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] lol
...

I like turns under throttle. Seems a shame to through away the bucket that keeps the pump submerged, keeps the pump cool and stops fuel starvation.