Just installed new rotors and pads, pedal feel

[FirebirdHatesRice]

How is the brake pedal supposed to feel? My car stops very smoothly and straight now, however it seems like even when the pedal is pressed all the way down my car just sort of quickly slows down, rather than abruptly stopping like I'd expect. Do all the Firebirds behave like this or is it possible something is wrong?

[Tyler]

did you bleed all 4 breaks?

[andrew.brandon]

did you make 100% sure you put more break fluid in after the install?

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

out in new fluid and bleed untill you see clean fliud, dont get any in your mouth [img]graemlins/barf.gif[/img]

[Tyler]

Originally posted by viper04af:
out in new fluid and bleed untill you see clean fliud, dont get any in your mouth [img]graemlins/barf.gif[/img]

LMFAO i take it you had a bad experience with bleeding breaks

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

Originally posted by Tyler:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by viper04af:
out in new fluid and bleed untill you see clean fliud, dont get any in your mouth [img]graemlins/barf.gif[/img]

LMFAO i take it you had a bad experience with bleeding breaks </font>[/QUOTE]no the clutch [img]graemlins/barf.gif[/img]

its also hot if you get it on your skin, it like burns... [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img]

[viper98885]

Definitely bleed the system after installing new brake parts. Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward. You will tell a significant difference.

[FirebirdHatesRice]

Ok guys, thanks for the advice. I'll definitely try that. Is there any place I can get a quick walkthrough on how to do that? I trusted my Haynes Repair Manual to do the brake job and all the diagrams, pictures, and directions were completely wrong and didn't match my car. Prior to doing anything I checked my fluid level...it's full to the top and it seems pretty clear.

[bu-bye]

you want to bleed the line from the pass-rear tire then the drv-rear then the pass-front then the drv-front. Bleed each line from far away to close until all the air from each line is out. Have a friend pump the brake to drain the fluid.

For future brake changes just use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You won't have to bleed the lines.

[bu-bye]

check out these sites:

http://experts.about.com/q/2560/3332105.htm
http://www.installuniversity.com/

[FirebirdHatesRice]

Originally posted by bu-bye:
you want to bleed the line from the pass-rear tire then the drv-rear then the pass-front then the drv-front. Bleed each line from far away to close until all the air from each line is out. Have a friend pump the brake to drain the fluid.

For future brake changes just use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You won't have to bleed the lines.

I did use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper...does that mean I shouldn't have to bleed the lines?

[RallyRed 98]

from the reservoir, you have to take out just enough fluid so pushing the pistons back in doesn't overflow... then add that much more back into the reservoir.

[FirebirdHatesRice]

Originally posted by RallyRed 98:
from the reservoir, you have to take out just enough fluid so pushing the pistons back in doesn't overflow... then add that much more back into the reservoir.

Even after pushing the pistons back in, the fluid only reached the top of the reservoir...it went back down after I hit the brake again. So are you saying that the reservoir should always be topped off? I don't think it is right now, a little below...but it was always like that. Maybe its been a problem all along.