wiring relay/harness question !!!

[obsessedv6]

first off , its a NOS05175, if i have my relay wired to my battery, shouldnt i get a 12V reading on the red wire coming out of the harness ? i'm not getting any reading. is this supposed to be that way?

[John_D.]

No, you have to supply 12v on the red wire, from your arming switch. When you put 12v to the red, and the green is grounded, the relay will flow 12v from orange to blue...

[obsessedv6]

alright , john...got a question...i know i have it set up right , cause before i left my mechanics shop we did a test spray to clear any debris out of the lines...let me tell you how i have my set up and see what you think could be wrong
first off, orange: ( + ),
one wire from each solenoid into blue,
other wire from 2nd solenoid to fpss
other side of fpss to ground
other wire from 1st solenoid to ground
green to WOT switch under gas pedal
other side of WOT to ground
red wire to arming switch
wire from arming switch to empty fuse slot (and
i do have 12V running through that)
last pole on arming switch is grounded

sorry that is a lot to think about..like i said, it was right before, but now its not working....i checked the fuse, and it is still good..i am POSITIVE that i have 12V going to the arming switch. any suggestions as to what could be wrong? please help anyone

[John_D.]

Yep, you have everything wired according to the book.

Some diagnosis/elimination steps that come to mind:

1. Do you have 12v on the orange, at the relay? (could be a bad connection at the battery or bad fuse)

2. Do you have 12v on the red, at the relay, when the arming switch is on?

3. Did the wot switch shift out of position? Is it still grounding when the pedal goes down?

4. With the key on and the car not running, test the solenoid activation as follows:

a. Turn off the nitrous bottle valve. (or you will fill the intake with nitrous...)
b. Turn on the arming switch.
c. Press the pedal down to actuate the wot switch.

If the first solenoid clicks, good, continue.

d. Ground the terminal coming from the fpss, not the one that is already grounded, but the other one. (this simulates adequate fuel pressure).
e. Press the pedal down to actuate the wot switch.

If both solenoids click, the wiring is ok.

Remove the extra ground wire from the fpss that you added in 4d.

If all the wiring checks out, and the nitrous does not flow while the car is running, the fuel pressure may be low, causing the fpss to do its job.

If you can manually blip the wot switch by hand without actually pressing the pedal down, hit it briefly while the car is idling. The engine should surge, which means everything is ok.

If not, temporarily ground the solenoid as in 4d again. Manually blip the wot switch. If the engine now surges, then the fuel pressure is too low, or a bad fpss.

If still no flow, but the solenoids are activating, then there is a blockage somewhere, or no more nitrous in the bottle...

[ July 03, 2002: Message edited by: John_D. ]</p>

[12secondv6]

Whoah, um, I'm no help here.
I can't wire anything to save my life.
I'll just sit back and read

[obsessedv6]

alright john...i tested out each of your options and here is what i get...

i get 12v on the orange at the relay

the wot switch grounds when the pedal is down

with the car on and the arming switch on i pressed the WOT switch and the 1st solenoid clicked...so far so good

then with the wire to the fpss grounded(simulating adequate fuel psi) , i pressed the WOT switch and both of the solenoids clicked, so far so good

i then hooked the fpss switch back up and turned the car on, then pressed the WOT switch and the car did NOT surge

then i simulated adequate fuel psi by grounding the solenoid, STILL the engine did not surge while the WOT switch wasnt down

im pretty sure the bottle isnt empty cause the pressure guage reads well over 1000 on a warm day and also when i try to disconnect the line from the bottle it still hisses pretty good
im not sure what the hell is wrong with it :mad:

[obsessedv6]

also, with the arming switch on, i got a 12v reading off the wire coming to the relay, but when i completed the line going to the relay , i did not get a 12v source off the red wire's relay port

would this have anything to do with it?

[John_D.]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by obsessedv6:
also, with the arming switch on, i got a 12v reading off the wire coming to the relay, but when i completed the line going to the relay , i did not get a 12v source off the red wire's relay port<hr></blockquote>

I'm confused about that comment. If you get 12v on the arming switch wire coming to the relay (which should be the red), it should show 12v when you complete the line (I think you mean grounding the green?)

Your diagnostic work on the solenoid activation makes it sound like all the wiring is correct, and the nitrous is just not physically present at the nozzle (or before). You probably need to verify that the line to the first solenoid will flow.

Turn off the bottle valve, remove the line from the solenoid, then slightly open (then close) the bottle valve and see if anything comes out of the line. You probably need somebody to hold the line to keep it from whipping around...

If you are getting nitrous to the solenoid, then the next question will be, are you getting nitrous to the nozzle. Reattach the line to the solenoid, and remove the line from the nozzle. Go redo what you did to get both solenoids to activate them, and see if anything comes out of the line down by the nozzle. This should identify where the blockage is, if any...

Good luck!

[ July 03, 2002: Message edited by: John_D. ]</p>