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  • Breaks and Rotors

    Just a few questions... Ive been thinkin about trying to change my own breaks and rotors because it looks easy. First what all tools would I need to do the job so that i'll know... Hex wrench size ect.... And I think my rotors are heat warped. I had the pads changed not to long ago. Would I have to change the pads as well or do you think they would be okay?

  • #2
    Re: Breaks and Rotors

    What year is the car? The LT1 calipers use a 3/8" Allen wrench. The LS1 brakes use a regular bolt, 13mm or 15mm I believe, don't remember. This is talking in terms of the front brakes, which I assume you're talking about because rear rotors generally don't warp.
    Usually they will resurface your rotors when you change the pads, they generally say you shouldn't change the pads without resurfacing or getting new rotors, but that can be argued. I personally would change the pads as well to remove doubt and avoid any future problems, as well as increase the interval until you have to do it again anyway.
    And it's "brakes," not "breaks."
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    1995 Buick Park Avenue Ultra
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    • #3
      Re: Breaks and Rotors

      I would def. use new pads on new rotors just so they break in the rotor right plus most companies will tell you too when breaking in the rotor. Ceramic pads I think are the best , Hawks, Satisfied or Duralast some excellent brands, rotors R1 concepts I have had good luck with D/S and also Powerslot slotted rotors. Next time I 'm trying Bremo Blanks or just slotted all around. The drilled I think takes away some stopping power. I noticed a difference with the power slots on the front just slotted.
      08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
      96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine

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