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How much for piston rings if I do it myself?
Where to get em?
What else will I need?
Any professional jobs I should get done while its all apart?
Any other instructions/help?
thanks
2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!
ok, i can answer about half your questions. i have no idea how much it'll cost, or where to get them. the motor has to be out of the car to change them though, at least im pretty sure becuase our engine bay is so cramped. anyway, i'll your'll need is ring plyer's, they go the oppsite way normal plyers do. like when you squeeze the handle on a normal pair of plyers, the teeth get closer together. the ring plyer teeth go away from each other. anyway, your'll need a ring compressor thing, all it does is hold all the rings compressed so you can side the piston in the sleeve. you only put the ring compressor on just anough to cover the rings, then as you push the piston in ( handle of a hammer is what i use ) you loosen and slowly take off the ring compressor. now i know the rings have to be staggered, but i dont know the exact degree apart from each other. its not hard to do, i think its fun. you kinda need two people though, one to push in the piston, and one to line up the connecting rod to the crank.
sorry if thats a little confusing, i'll try to be more clear if you get lost somewhere.
1998 bright red camaro ,M5 ,Y87 ,stock<br /><br />Originally posted by Rune:<br />If it smells like a turd and looks like a turd, chances are its probably not a candy bar.
Its a must that you have the cylinders honed before you install new rings otherwise you'll have a smoke bomb on your hands. Also, if you buy aftermarket rings, most likely they will have to be file fit otherwise the ends will butt together and you'll pop the top of your piston off.
Be cautious here because you are potentially about to open a pandora's box! And the real question you need to ask yourself is what is the end result that you want when you have it all put back together? Because depending on what you want as an end result will determine how you proceed here.
If you just want to get it running and don't really care about the overall quality of the engine you can have the cylinders honed (by a shop or yourself) and throw everything back together. But I've seen this done before on high mileage engines where only the rings were replaced (or even when rebuilt heads were put on) and the resulting improvement in the pressures at the top end of the engine leads to a more rapid degredation or even failure of the bottom end (crank/con rod bearings). Now I haven't seen this happen yet on a 3800 engine, but have on others.
Chances are if you send your block to the machine shop to get a cylinder hone, expect them to start finding other things worn in the engine. For example, what are you going to do if they tell you that the honing will not remove all the cylinder wall scoring without boring to the next oversize? Are you going to live with some scoring or are you going to bore oversize with new pistons etc...? You might find yourself in a rebuilding situation quicker than you think.
Make sure that you actually need those rings replaced. (I see in your other thread that you're trying to do that)
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
well CRAP! I knew the problem was gonna be piston rings.
I put oil in just 1 cylinder..the original compression was 100psi
after the oil it went up to 150psi. I dont think I need to check the other cylinders, do I?
CDNFB: I dont think my cylinders are scored, but what do I know, I'm a rookie. SO, you told me that if I just want to get it running then just throw it all back together and do a cylinder hone. BUT, you didnt say what to do if I want quality! What do I have to do if I want quality and I really want to race my engine? My engine WAS running GOOD times, I promise, it was fast...
wickedsix/lance: can you tell me more about file fitting the rings? I've never seen that done before. Usually I see people just put the rings on then hammer the piston back into the cylinder.
2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!
ok, well... I'm stupid for thinking I dont need to check the other cylinders.
Cause a compression test will tell you more than just bad rings/head gasket.
2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!
Well, if you going for a quality job and/or your going to bump the HP up (either built in or bolt on) you gotta do the job right. To do that you have to ask yourself about the mission you want this engine to fulfill. What target HP you want, how hard your going to run it, how reliable, etc.. Without doing this you can easily overbuild or underbuild your engine, which always results in dissappointment and $$$$$$ wasted.
Also you have to understand the present condition of everything in your engine. If your target is exceptional reliability or extreme HP you will have to do a complete teardown and inspection. At the other end of things, inservice tolerances might be acceptable for mild gains in HP thus complete teardown might not be required.
You also have to factor in special requirements for power adders. An example of this is lower compression and forged pistons for FI engines (depending on HP and boost levels).
With your engines mission defined and a complete understanding of your engine's present condition, you can then ask intellegent questions and determine what is really required or not.
Right now (while the engine is out) is the time to build the core engine to meet your future requirements. By core engine I mean the pistons, rings, connecting rods, crank, and block. Right now you might not have all the cash to do everything you want to, so focus on the core because everything else can bought and bolted on or put in later when you have the cash. You have to consider a properly built core as the most important supporting mod for all those other mods that you intend to do to get major HP gains.
DZ
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
So what you're saying is that your car ran in the 13s (before this latest adventure)??
I seems to me that you're not the one who built it to do that.
Perhaps this is a good example of using an engine core that was not prepared to do the job.
DZ
Now Playing: \'99 Pewter Firebird, stock, bone stock, and nothing but stock, so help me God!<br />Comming attractions: K&N Filter, Lid Mod, Intake Bellows Smooth Pipe Mod.<br />I dream about: Forced Induction (TC or SC) or NOX (or both!)
no, I bought the car brand new in 2001, its a 2002
I did all my own work, like installing my 4.10s
But when I flushed my coolant I had a leak, all the coolant drained..
The car overheated several times, so thats why the head gasket and piston rings blew. Im such a Tard
2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
Just ordered some Toyo 315/35/17 tires for my 17x11 rims. Hopefully I can get them on the beginning of next year. Will post pics.
5 days ago
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