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My buddy has the same car as me an 01 camaro/firebird. We're looing at installing a cam in his car. The abbot and gt2 both seem like good cams for the street however both will need tuning but thats ok pcmfor less or here in town.I have heard sound clips of both and by the specs shouldnt the gt2 cam have a little more lobe? But in the clips it seems like the abbott is a little more pissed off. The gt2 with a 111 lsa should give a tad more down low but will the abbot pull good down low too? I also know the gt2 can be used with stock springs although if your going to rev high you should get stiffer ones can the abbot also use stockers?
Thanks Dan-
It's always recommended to upgrade springs. If anything just go to the ls6 yellow springs (90lbs.). If you could post the specs on those cams, that would make responding a whole lot easier so we don't have to got to the two different sites the find and compare them ourselves. good question
What are you looking for? The cheapest way to put a cam in your car, or the best way to get some nice numbers? If you want power, go Abbott's. If you don't want to upgrade the rest of your valvetrain, go GT1 or GT2. I went GT2 on all stock valvetrain, but my valvetrain had ~20K on it and looked like new when I did that; most people are going to recommend still upgrading the valvetrain. If you want to raise the shift points any, then you're going to need springs, so you might as well as go with Abbott's.
The gt2 with a 111 lsa should give a tad more down low but will the abbot pull good down low too?
The 111LSA of the GT2 will make for more low end torque and it will lope more. I would recommend an upgraded valve train as the lobes on the GT2 are extremely aggressive.
Thanks guys. Dont mean to sound ignorant but what results has everyone seen with the abbot as opposed to the gt2? I heard some pretty nice gains with the gt2 but I cant seem to find anything on the abbot with a stockish engine. Right now the car has the full bolt ons headers dual exhaust lid and ignition. I like what you all said about the abbot for power I would really like to tell the guy at school with the stock 01 mustang gt to shove it up his *** cuz he doesnt really walk away from me till about 60 anyway.:) How is the abbot with a stock converter? The car has 3.42's in it btw. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks guys. Dont mean to sound ignorant but what results has everyone seen with the abbot as opposed to the gt2? I heard some pretty nice gains with the gt2 but I cant seem to find anything on the abbot with a stockish engine.
my engine is about as "stock" as a cam-only engine can safely be, and it made 248 rwhp and 250 tq
specs for the gt2 are...216/216 .317/.317 111 lsa
and the abbott 210/220 .320/.320 112 lsa.
When the car was bought the guy had just put brand new stock springs and heads on it dont ask why... Thats the reason I asked about the springs. By the looks of the top numbers the abbott is a slightly milder cam, dont kill me for asking but if the shift points stay the same about 5500-6000 will the abbott completely destory the springs and make the motor eat the valve?
I would recommend upgrading the valvetrain as well, Comp 105's are a good choice(they have less seat pressure than the 90's= less wear on the damper and timing chain). ZZP steel modded retainers and Viton seals will give you an extra .050 more clearance. Pushrods would be up to you, many say stockers are fine, but since your in there Comp 5/16 or even the new Comp .105 pushrods would be a nice up grade. Just don't get the lighter weight pushrods for they will warp, thats what my intense light weight pushrods did. ( I just ordered the Comp .105 pushrods so I will see what they look like). For locks the Comp ones are a little more tight fitting than stock ones so they were alittle harder to put in. I have the Comp locks on the spare heads I will be installing, but the heads on the car now have the stock locks. Meatyshells and I couldn't get them in with the heads on the car so we just used the stockers which are holding up fine. For cams it would be your choice since both cams seem to be good cams.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I believe the Abbott holds the best numbers for a cam only car so far?....I could be wrong though.
As stated you would be wise to do the springs even if the ones you have are brand new....not worth the risk IMO...they might hold up, they might not....depends how you drive it, what you shift at etc....but why do all this work if you are not going to have some fun with it?
Ok I was doing a little bit of reading on the springs. It looks like the ls6 yellow springs but it says they can damage the stock timing dampener is that true has anyone had any problems. Also are the spring and the retainers all i need? ;Ive rebuilt engines before so Ill do the install myself. But ive always left the valve assembly to the machine shop when I had the heads milled so the will be a first.:)
Look you can either do it cheap or do it right. The ls6 springs are fairly light (90lbs) but have more seat pressure than the Comp 105lbs springs. Which means you will destroy your timing chain tensioner and will have to upgrade to a double roller set.
If you want a minimum priced install while still being fairly safe, buy:
Abbott's NA Cam
Comp 105 springs
ZZP Cam Install kit #4 (make sure to get the tensioner)
New Crank Bolt (the one in the ZZP kit won't work)
In my opinion (and in my setup):
Abbott's NA Cam
Comp 130 springs
JP Double Roller Timing chain
ZZP Install Kit #4 (no tensioner)
Comp .705 pushrods
Reusable Rocker Arm Bolts
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
Haven’t done anything on the Camaro, but put LEDs on my truck headlights . And my oil pressure sensor went out on the truck so going to fix that this...
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