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  • LSD Install componets

    so i finally got my LSD from SLP and im thinkin of install it with the help of my friends

    what parts will i need to make this install go easy..i will be going from 3.42 open rear to 3.42 LSD..

    so i need:

    1. any special tools? we will have a full garage .
    2.i will need a new gasket right? were can i buy this at?
    3 i will need new fluid in the rear end..any suggestions
    4 will i need bnew bearing of any sort i know there are some on there and they will only have about 14000 miles on them so they should be **ok** ...
    5. LSD additive? WTF is this stuff

    what am i forgetting...

    Jeff W

  • #2
    1. any special tools? we will have a full garage .
    No

    2.i will need a new gasket right? were can i buy this at?
    Yes, parts store

    3 i will need new fluid in the rear end..any suggestions
    Well obviously, unless you're doing it in zero gravity. [img]redface.gif[/img]

    4 will i need bnew bearing of any sort i know there are some on there and they will only have about 14000 miles on them so they should be **ok** ...

    Depends on the miles of the differential. If it's over 50K I'd say get new bearings pressed on. I'm assuming your LSD came with bearings on it. If not, then you have to get some.

    5. LSD additive? WTF is this stuff
    Only if you have an Auburn. Most likely you got the Torsen. I'm still the only cool guy that runs Auburn in this club. :cool:
    what am i forgetting...

    Buy some beer

    [ March 22, 2002: Message edited by: Dom ]</p>

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    • #3
      you dont need the limited slip additive, just the reg. stuff......hope u dont need a new bearing, those things are 50 bucks a pop

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      • #4
        What bearings are we talking about here. If you're talking about the ring bearings on each side of the diff, I used the old ones, the Torsen unit from SLP didn't have them. When I took the open diff out, the two bearings fell out with it. The looked to be in good shape, so I put them on my new diff.

        Are there any other bearings?
        -<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater

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        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TheBeast:
          you dont need the limited slip additive, just the reg. stuff......hope u dont need a new bearing, those things are 50 bucks a pop<hr></blockquote> i thought you needed the LSD additive, i put it in mine, about $10 at my local GM dealer. here's the install

          SITE i used as directions
          New Car: 2004 GTP Comp G (Test Vehicle) 13.936@99.32 <br />Mods: Cylinder Filter,No Mufflers, 3.3\" <br />Old Car: 2000 Formula 13.124 @ 106.01 with 2.73\'s<br />Other Car: 1993 Firebird 16.1@83

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          • #6
            Changing a differential is very tricky and does require a lot of special tools including micrometer, pinion dept setting tool, dial indicator, two torque wrenches and a press. If you have none of these and you still want it to work well, have a specialty shop do it. I have been thinking about doing it myself, but since there are so many tricks to this job to make it come out right, you should job it out to someone who is experienced at this specialty.
            180 Thermo, K&N Filter, Transgo stage 2, Pacesetters, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Catback, 3.42 LSD, Hotchkis LCA/Panhard, Bilstein, Eibach Pro, 1LE bars, SP crossdrilled/slotted rotors.<br /><br />Vortech Project 1.0 failed.<br />Vortech Project 2.0 in the works

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            • #7
              I believe the tools and process you are talking about is an actual gear change. But swapping the diff should not require any work with the pinion. Atleast the others on the board have not had to!

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              • #8
                well i have being doing the install toda got mine from slp also you need not special tools for just the posi you will need 2 qt of gear oil i got synthetic mobil 1 you will need gm additive get that at a local dealership you will need a new gasket for the housing i guess a local prt store should have it just take your time and jack the car up HIGH your neck will hurt and the diff. is heavy
                1998 Jet Black Trans-am M6 T-tops<br />\"Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find: knock and it shall be opened unto you:-Matthew 7:7<br />Old car<br /><a href=\"http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome\" target=\"_blank\">http://matthew27529.tripod.com/getsome</a><br />NEW CAR<br /><a href=\"http://garnerebel.tripod.com/\" target=\"_blank\">http://garnerebel.tripod.com/</a>

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                • #9
                  hmm well i was told by someone i trust not to do it myslef..he said i have to pull the gears and everyhitng else out..BUT i still think i can do it..How could it be that hard..THE MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION... those who installed does your make any whining noises or anything..i dont want to have problems with this unit so im on the cross raods right now..professional and spend the money or cheap way and do it myslef...hmm

                  Jeff W

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                  • #10
                    I did the install myself in a little under three hours in the parking lot of my apartment complex. I have had the unit in for 6 months and 10,000 miles now, no whining, no noises, or any problems of any type.

                    And to straighten out the additive question, you only need limited slip additive it you have a LSD that has clutch internals such as an auburn rear end. The Torsen LSD uses gear driven internals and does not require limited slip additive.
                    Jared W. Drummond<br />jdrummon@vt.edu<br />1997 3.8 Firebird M5<br />-----------------------------------<br />*Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler* *SLP Cold Air Intake* *Zexel-Torsen LSD* *1-Piece DS* *Eibach Pro-Kit* *Removed MAF Screen* *Manual Fan Switch* *Mobil 1 Oils*<br />-----------------------------------<br />*Pioneer Premier DEH-920R Headunit* *Orion Cobalt 6 1/2\'s* *Sub Stealth Box w/ Alpine SWR-1021D* *Kenwood 728S Amp for Sub*

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                    • #11
                      <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by DrFix2Fly:
                      Changing a differential is very tricky and does require a lot of special tools including micrometer, pinion dept setting tool, dial indicator, two torque wrenches and a press. If you have none of these and you still want it to work well, have a specialty shop do it. I have been thinking about doing it myself, but since there are so many tricks to this job to make it come out right, you should job it out to someone who is experienced at this specialty.<hr></blockquote>

                      wasn't very difficult at all, basicially you pop the old one out, and pop the new one in. I did it with a friend who has more experience working on vehicles then me, but still nowhere near a mechanic. I've had it for two months, and i've had no problems, no whining or anything.
                      New Car: 2004 GTP Comp G (Test Vehicle) 13.936@99.32 <br />Mods: Cylinder Filter,No Mufflers, 3.3\" <br />Old Car: 2000 Formula 13.124 @ 106.01 with 2.73\'s<br />Other Car: 1993 Firebird 16.1@83

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                      • #12
                        hey i run an auburn. they rock the house [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]
                        For Sale<p>Mods so Far:<br />Tb Coolant Bypass, NGK Vpower Plugs, Accel 8mm Wires, Gutted Cat, TransAm Muffler, K&N FIPK, Crower Baja Cam, Comp Cams Magnum Rocker Arms 1.52 Ratio, Ported Throttlebody, Ported Intake Manifold, 3.73s and Auburn LSD, Yellow Underbody Neons, Milled Heads, Pacesetter Headers, TransGo Shift Kit, 1 Piece DS, Accel Coils, Rk Sport Air Temperature Module<p>Soon Mods:<br />Nos 5175, Rims, Stage 2 Jet Chip, Jet Underdrive Pullys, Strut Tower Brace, Subframe Connectors, Speed Calibrator, Lowering Springs

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                        • #13
                          I still think you need to at least check the backlash of the gears and the tooth pattern when you install a new differential. There is no guarantee that a different carrier with the oringinal gears will fit the same way. If they do and you can prove it by measuring your backlash and verifying your patterns all in three hours in an apartment parking lot, you are very lucky and fast. I think it's a good time to put in the gears you really want at the same time you change the carrier. Take your time, do it right, make sure you have the right tools before you start and understand everything involved before starting. Good luck with your efforts.
                          180 Thermo, K&N Filter, Transgo stage 2, Pacesetters, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Catback, 3.42 LSD, Hotchkis LCA/Panhard, Bilstein, Eibach Pro, 1LE bars, SP crossdrilled/slotted rotors.<br /><br />Vortech Project 1.0 failed.<br />Vortech Project 2.0 in the works

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                          • #14
                            ok im wondering, if i ordered the LSD/Zexel Torsen from SLP (which I did a month ago STILL hasnt arrived)....and purchased a set of 3.42's someplace else....

                            what else will i need???

                            I have on the way:
                            -SLP LSD/Zexel Torsen
                            -3.42 Gears
                            -Reluctor Ring

                            What else will I need that the mechanic wont already have?????

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I just called yesterday and asked about my order. They expect the gearset to arrive to them this week, so we should expect ours next week. You will need a new reluctor ring and some sort of installation kit, not to mention a speedometer calibrator unless you expect to have your dealer reprogram your PCM for the new ratio. To change the gears and carrier, you will need all the tools I mentioned unless you are incredibly lucky. Shimming the pinion bearing is supposed to be the trickiest part. You can try the trial and error method, but you will likely trash your bearing and you pull it off and push it on the pinion. These two are high interference fit which is why a shop will use a hydraulic press for this. You will need feeler gages, micrometer, dial indicator, 2 torque wrenches, pinion depth setting tool, big socket for pinion nut, breaker bar to get it loose, bandages for when you slip, and a lot of beer to get you through the process. If you dont feel up to it, maybe you shouldn't because it may not be worth it. Axles are a specialty like machine work and should be left to a shop if you prefer good results. I am a mechanic and I may decide to job this chore out just because of the specialized tooling required.
                              180 Thermo, K&N Filter, Transgo stage 2, Pacesetters, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Catback, 3.42 LSD, Hotchkis LCA/Panhard, Bilstein, Eibach Pro, 1LE bars, SP crossdrilled/slotted rotors.<br /><br />Vortech Project 1.0 failed.<br />Vortech Project 2.0 in the works

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