just poor it in the shifter hole ;)
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www.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
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Originally posted by viper04af:
just poor it in the shifter hole ;)
I need to check what it woudl cost to have someone do brakes, clutch, and tranny fluid. If its less then $50 I might just have them do it.
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well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.
how about some ideas?Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.
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Originally posted by morbid:
well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.
how about some ideas?
NOt sure what to do with it.
BTW where was the bleeder valve? under the car? Near the transmission?
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Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by morbid:
well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.
how about some ideas?
NOt sure what to do with it.
BTW where was the bleeder valve? under the car? Near the transmission? </font>[/QUOTE]were the line comes in for the clutch just above thatwww.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
Comment
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Originally posted by morbid:
well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.
how about some ideas?www.turbov6camaro.com
1997 3800 Series II Camaro
4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty
Comment
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Originally posted by viper04af:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by morbid:
well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.
how about some ideas?Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.
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my dad was doing the pedal, i don't know if he was releasing it slow or not, but when i tried it myself, there didn't seem an obvious slow way to do it.
If the pedal is released before the bleeder screw is closed, you are letting air into system and just wasting your time.
Here are instructions from the GM manual:
http://www.wtfba.org/temp/clutch_bleeding.html
[ September 20, 2004, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: Jason McCallister ]Jason McCallister, Founder & Webmaster<br /><a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">West Tennessee F-Body Association, Inc.</a><br /><br />2000 Camaro - <a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org/site/view_member.php?ID=68\" target=\"_blank\">Details</a>
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Jsut to double check...
-Car turned off, and on jack stands.
-put some brake fluid in a container(clear), and a hose(clear) running to the brake the container.
-push clutch in, and hold it down.
-open bleeder valve, fluid pours out.
-add more fluid in the resovoir(our slowly not to aerate it too much)
-Keep running until clear fluid starts pouring into the container on the ground
-close bleeder valve
-let clutch up very slowly, and everything shoudl be 100%
That sound like a decent procedure?
EDIT: Read the posted procedures.
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Originally posted by Jason McCallister:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> my dad was doing the pedal, i don't know if he was releasing it slow or not, but when i tried it myself, there didn't seem an obvious slow way to do it.
If the pedal is released before the bleeder screw is closed, you are letting air into system and just wasting your time.
Here are instructions from the GM manual:
http://www.wtfba.org/temp/clutch_bleeding.html </font>[/QUOTE]well duh! of course he only releases the pedal after i've tightened the screw. my point there was that (with the screw tightened) i pressed down on the pedal and tried releasing it to see how it feels to give some feedback to the suggestion.
slow releasing might have helped, or it might just have been the fact that i've repeated this about a million times now, but there is an ever so slight suggestion of pedal pressure in the last inch or so of pedal travel. but i ran out of break fluid, so i had to run out and get more. i got 3 bottles just in case this time. i might need all 3 just to get the pedal all the way back to normal, but at least there's a sign of improvement now. it does take a lot of pacience.
thanks for the link though.Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.
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Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
Jsut to double check...
-Car turned off, and on jack stands.
-put some brake fluid in a container(clear), and a hose(clear) running to the brake the container.
-push clutch in, and hold it down.
-open bleeder valve, fluid pours out.
-add more fluid in the resovoir(our slowly not to aerate it too much)
-Keep running until clear fluid starts pouring into the container on the ground
-close bleeder valve
-let clutch up very slowly, and everything shoudl be 100%
That sound like a decent procedure?
EDIT: Read the posted procedures.Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.
Comment
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well duh! of course he only releases the pedal after i've tightened the screw.
when i release the bleeder, the fluid never stops flowing, it just keeps on dripping downJason McCallister, Founder & Webmaster<br /><a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">West Tennessee F-Body Association, Inc.</a><br /><br />2000 Camaro - <a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org/site/view_member.php?ID=68\" target=\"_blank\">Details</a>
Comment
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