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  • #16
    just poor it in the shifter hole ;)
    www.turbov6camaro.com
    1997 3800 Series II Camaro
    4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
    7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
    11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty

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    • #17
      Originally posted by viper04af:
      just poor it in the shifter hole ;)
      Thats what she said.... [img]smile.gif[/img]
      1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
      1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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      • #18
        Originally posted by viper04af:
        just poor it in the shifter hole ;)
        haha I was thinking that too... but more of I have beer bong style funnel, I coudl run the hose to the fill hole, but didn't want to pull the center console to do it. Maybe if my shfiter comes loose again.

        I need to check what it woudl cost to have someone do brakes, clutch, and tranny fluid. If its less then $50 I might just have them do it.

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        • #19
          Sorry Mustangeater, I went to bed early last night and didn't get a chance to replyto your question.
          I was lazy that day and ran it to a shop. Cost me about $24 for a flush-n-fill.
          sigpic

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          • #20
            well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.

            how about some ideas?
            Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by morbid:
              well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.

              how about some ideas?
              hmm... i was actually almost gonna do this today, good thing my local autozone is out of like every fluid, since there nearest competitor has been closed for over a month they have been swamped.

              NOt sure what to do with it.

              BTW where was the bleeder valve? under the car? Near the transmission?

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
                </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by morbid:
                well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.

                how about some ideas?
                hmm... i was actually almost gonna do this today, good thing my local autozone is out of like every fluid, since there nearest competitor has been closed for over a month they have been swamped.

                NOt sure what to do with it.

                BTW where was the bleeder valve? under the car? Near the transmission?
                </font>[/QUOTE]were the line comes in for the clutch just above that
                www.turbov6camaro.com
                1997 3800 Series II Camaro
                4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
                7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
                11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by morbid:
                  well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.

                  how about some ideas?
                  pump like 10 times hold on floor and keep it there, then rleas the bleeder, just after the fluid stop close the bleeder. then SLOWLY releas the peddel, if you do it to fast you suck in air, repeat till the peddle feels good
                  www.turbov6camaro.com
                  1997 3800 Series II Camaro
                  4600 Stall for my ride to the mall :chug:
                  7.18 @ 99.77 1/8 -1.8x sixty (current quickest v6 fbod)
                  11.23 @ unk 5 1/4 - 7.19 1/8 - 1.83 sixty

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by viper04af:
                    pump like 10 times hold on floor and keep it there, then rleas the bleeder, just after the fluid stop close the bleeder. then SLOWLY releas the peddel, if you do it to fast you suck in air, repeat till the peddle feels good
                    sounds like a 2 person job.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by viper04af:
                      </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by morbid:
                      well, thanks for all the advice. i have absolutly 0 pedal pressure now. i did the pump-hold-open-close-release thing about 100 times, had to add about 2 reservoirs full of fluid in the process, and basically all for nothing.

                      how about some ideas?
                      pump like 10 times hold on floor and keep it there, then rleas the bleeder, just after the fluid stop close the bleeder. then SLOWLY releas the peddel, if you do it to fast you suck in air, repeat till the peddle feels good </font>[/QUOTE]when i release the bleeder, the fluid never stops flowing, it just keeps on dripping down. if i let it, it would just empty the whole reservior again. my dad was doing the pedal, i don't know if he was releasing it slow or not, but when i tried it myself, there didn't seem an obvious slow way to do it. you don't really release it, because it doesn't do anything but sit there, so you have to pull it back out by hand. sorry if was a bit short, just really frustrated right now. :mad:
                      Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        my dad was doing the pedal, i don't know if he was releasing it slow or not, but when i tried it myself, there didn't seem an obvious slow way to do it.
                        Maybe I'm reading your reply wrong, but you must tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE your dad releases the pedal! [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img]

                        If the pedal is released before the bleeder screw is closed, you are letting air into system and just wasting your time.

                        Here are instructions from the GM manual:

                        http://www.wtfba.org/temp/clutch_bleeding.html

                        [ September 20, 2004, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: Jason McCallister ]
                        Jason McCallister, Founder & Webmaster<br /><a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">West Tennessee F-Body Association, Inc.</a><br /><br />2000 Camaro - <a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org/site/view_member.php?ID=68\" target=\"_blank\">Details</a>

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Jsut to double check...

                          -Car turned off, and on jack stands.
                          -put some brake fluid in a container(clear), and a hose(clear) running to the brake the container.
                          -push clutch in, and hold it down.
                          -open bleeder valve, fluid pours out.
                          -add more fluid in the resovoir(our slowly not to aerate it too much)
                          -Keep running until clear fluid starts pouring into the container on the ground
                          -close bleeder valve
                          -let clutch up very slowly, and everything shoudl be 100%

                          That sound like a decent procedure?


                          EDIT: Read the posted procedures.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Jason McCallister:
                            </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> my dad was doing the pedal, i don't know if he was releasing it slow or not, but when i tried it myself, there didn't seem an obvious slow way to do it.
                            Maybe I'm reading your reply wrong, but you must tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE your dad releases the pedal! [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img]

                            If the pedal is released before the bleeder screw is closed, you are letting air into system and just wasting your time.

                            Here are instructions from the GM manual:

                            http://www.wtfba.org/temp/clutch_bleeding.html
                            </font>[/QUOTE]well duh! of course he only releases the pedal after i've tightened the screw. my point there was that (with the screw tightened) i pressed down on the pedal and tried releasing it to see how it feels to give some feedback to the suggestion.

                            slow releasing might have helped, or it might just have been the fact that i've repeated this about a million times now, but there is an ever so slight suggestion of pedal pressure in the last inch or so of pedal travel. but i ran out of break fluid, so i had to run out and get more. i got 3 bottles just in case this time. i might need all 3 just to get the pedal all the way back to normal, but at least there's a sign of improvement now. it does take a lot of pacience.

                            thanks for the link though.
                            Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
                              Jsut to double check...

                              -Car turned off, and on jack stands.
                              -put some brake fluid in a container(clear), and a hose(clear) running to the brake the container.
                              -push clutch in, and hold it down.
                              -open bleeder valve, fluid pours out.
                              -add more fluid in the resovoir(our slowly not to aerate it too much)
                              -Keep running until clear fluid starts pouring into the container on the ground
                              -close bleeder valve
                              -let clutch up very slowly, and everything shoudl be 100%

                              That sound like a decent procedure?


                              EDIT: Read the posted procedures.
                              you brave enought to try this one yourself yet? ;)
                              Silver \'98 Camaro M5<br />Current MODs:<br />SLP strut tower brace; SLP 1LE swaybars front/back; Powerslot rotors; Hawk pads; Eibach springs; Bilstein SLP shock kit; SLP trans mount; Zexel limited-slip differential; LS1 drive shaft.<br />Possible future MODs:<br />BMR Lower Control Arms; BMR Pandhard Rod.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                well duh! of course he only releases the pedal after i've tightened the screw.
                                Well, since you made that perfectly clear, :rolleyes: let's move on to the next possibility.

                                when i release the bleeder, the fluid never stops flowing, it just keeps on dripping down
                                It's very possible you have a leak in your master cylinder or the actuator cylinder is faulty.
                                Jason McCallister, Founder & Webmaster<br /><a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">West Tennessee F-Body Association, Inc.</a><br /><br />2000 Camaro - <a href=\"http://www.wtfba.org/site/view_member.php?ID=68\" target=\"_blank\">Details</a>

                                Comment

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