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  • No heat?

    I'm getting no heat at all. My w/p is turning the right direction with the serp. belt hooked up right. My ECT temp is a max of 210F.
    But none of my heater lines ever feel hot?
    The fan does blow.
    I have no clue. Maybe the heater line check valve crapped out? :mad:
    2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

  • #2
    bad termostat.

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    • #3
      even if the 160F Thermo is stuck in the open position?
      2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

      Comment


      • #4
        if its stuck open, its constantly flowing coolant and not letting the car warm up thus no heat.

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        • #5
          well, I keep my ECT at no more than 210F.
          (via tuning the pcm)
          how much more hot does it need to get?
          2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

          Comment


          • #6
            the ECT is fine. i would suspect the heater control valve

            [ February 03, 2006, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: BLLDOGG ]
            2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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            • #7
              yes, the pcm reports up to like 210F, normally.

              where is the heater control valve?
              it doesnt show on howstuffworks.com
              none of my lines get hot.
              can you kill a heater core by drying it out or something?
              2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

              Comment


              • #8
                it does show it on how stuff works dot com..... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system2.htm I dont know where its located at on our cars, somewhere hard to get to im sure. But im sure thats your problem.
                <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by slow6:
                  can you kill a heater core by drying it out or something?
                  no, a heater core is nothing but a small radiator
                  2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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                  • #10
                    hm, so i'm guessing the check valve is gonna come from the cylinder cooling lines?
                    2k2 camaro, K&N, SLP whisper lid, Konis, AEM, HP Tuners, Angel eyes/Halos, CF SS ram air hood, 4.10s, Zexel Torsen, UMI SFCs, CrossFire, BFGs, Gatorback, Catco, Flows, and TLC! DONT feed the Trolls!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      hahahah. rookies...


                      Heres what you do - follow the heater lines in to the heatercore. Are they hot? Get a infared thermometer and get a temp of those hoses.

                      Report back to me [img]smile.gif[/img] My money says your heatercore is clogged up with ****. Especially if its an older car. And if thats the case, I have some tricks that dont involve replacing the heater core. ;)
                      Mustangs.. Come to the darkside...<br /><br />The dark side is the path to the shadow of greed. =D

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by KBeezy:
                        hahahah. rookies...


                        Heres what you do - follow the heater lines in to the heatercore. Are they hot? Get a infared thermometer and get a temp of those hoses.

                        Report back to me [img]smile.gif[/img] My money says your heatercore is clogged up with ****. Especially if its an older car. And if thats the case, I have some tricks that dont involve replacing the heater core. ;)
                        none of his lines are hot. if it was a clogged core, than the inlet line would be hot which its not and the outlet would be cool or only warm. that tell you coolant isnt even getting to the core to be able to determine if its clogged. Rookie [img]tongue.gif[/img]
                        2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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                        • #13
                          IM not sure how the system really works, but im sure its not the check valve. I bet its the valve that opens when you put the heater on....i guess it might be called the flow control valve.
                          <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You have spent alot of time trying to figure this out already. I would Take it to a good shop and ask them to take a look at it. Im sure they could tell you for free what the problem is right away. Then report back to us. [img]graemlins/popcorn.gif[/img]
                            <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2245261</a> Green 1997, 105k, all stock except for Z28 front springs, Air shocks in the rear, home made coolant recovery tank, home made battery hold down.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              *raises brow*


                              Are you sure about that? Last time I checked coolant gets hot, it heats ALL the coolant... Just because its not flowing 100% doesnt mean that line wont get warm.. And just because the core isn't flowing efficiently doesn't mean theres no coolant in the heater core outlet. You can have a clog thats only a partial clog and still allows coolant to go through but not enough to create a warm temp from the vents. ;) Its a northern thing homey, you wouldn't understand. lol. I've fixed that NUMEROUS times.


                              What he needs to do is get his head under the dash and see if he can hear the flapper door opening and closing when he changes temps. If he can hear it, its working.

                              From there he goes with my suggestion-- disconnect the heater core supply hoses from the motor side - NOT THE HEATER CORE SIDE - and flush it out with water. THEN pour a bottle of CLR down in to the heatercore through those lines with the outlet line clamped off... Let it sit for ~15 minutes... Hose it out with water, from both the inlet and outlet side. THEN use an air blowgun and blow it out. *nods* Works EVERY time. You'll be amazed at the **** that comes out after you CLR it.
                              Mustangs.. Come to the darkside...<br /><br />The dark side is the path to the shadow of greed. =D

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