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Just wanted to throw in I did run high 14s with "intake/exhaust" but I also ran low 15s with a best of a 15.2 bone stock.
I ran 14.8s with an unhooked exhaust, 14.6s with unhooked exhaust nad intake... and the 14.4s with the pulled belt.
My car was usually ~130* temp wise
Thats what I mean....I think if he can run that...then if I am full bolt on and geared up I feel its not impossible to run 13.99...anyways yea I'll try and find the DA shortly...weather does make a huge difference...I am going again may 31st but this time I am going to get there atleast an hour early and let the car cool down...I'll post my times again then...
Drag radials are unnecessary. What kind of tire do you have now? You should be fine with a street tire, but a good one. I was consistently going 2.0 on stock Goodyear Eagle GA's. The #'s aren't bad. 90mph is scooting for these cars, but that will come down slightly with a better 60'.
I have hankook ventus HRII's 245 R16 50
if I can drop my 60's from 2.2 to 2.0 like I want then I should theoretically be running 14.8 (I read that every tenth you drop off the 60ft is multiplied by 2 for your 1/4 time...)
what do you mean by 90mph is scooting for these cars?
I mean 90 MPH is strong. Looks like the treadwear rating on those tires is 340. Eagle GA's were 250ish iirc, Nitto Drag Radials are 100 and Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials are 0. It's gonna take some work to make those tires 60'. What pressure were you running in those? Don't forget to air the fronts up at the track to 45lbs, lol, and don't forget to air them down before you leave.
I mean 90 MPH is strong. Looks like the treadwear rating on those tires is 340. Eagle GA's were 250ish iirc, Nitto Drag Radials are 100 and Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials are 0. It's gonna take some work to make those tires 60'. What pressure were you running in those? Don't forget to air the fronts up at the track to 45lbs, lol, and don't forget to air them down before you leave.
that was one thing I didnt do...I left the tires at the stock pressure I think its like 40psi or something....whatever they were filled up at...I didnt have a tire pressure gauge...I would have liked to drop the pressure in the back...So I want the front tires hard?
How am I supposed to set the shocks there 8 way adjustable...I believe I want it stiffer in the front and softer in the rear right?....like I was thinking of trying 4 up front and 1 back next time...
I really don't think airing those rocks you call tires down will have much of an effect. I have no experiance with those shocks. How loose will they go? My QA1's were very loose when set on soft.
I really don't think airing those rocks you call tires down will have much of an effect. I have no experiance with those shocks. How loose will they go? My QA1's were very loose when set on soft.
I dont know...thats the thing I am still feeling them out....What is an ideal setting not necessarily on my shocks but I mean what do you usally want when you are racing in the 1/4...stiffer up front softer our back?
hey now...I read someone on here cut 2.0's on these tires....
The run of 14.4 was also with pulling the serpentine belt which is good for .3 in the 1/4 and was also probably done in VERY good weather with a manual (which has the advantage until the auto get a torque converter).
You want your rear shocks set as stiff as possible while still getting a strong launch. Loose shocks = squat. Squat = wasted energy. When my car launched the rear would actually lift up a few inches, not come down, and I my car was capable of high 1.5s and CONSISTANT 1.60s.
You are right about .1 in the 60 basically equaling .2 in the 1/4
More practice on the tires and you should be able to get into the 2.0 range. Lower the rears to 25 and raise the fronts to 40-45. It wont do a lot, but everything adds up.
On a good launch you should be able to get into the 14s. If you let your car cool down and pull the serpentine belt and get a good launch you could probably get 14.5s with practice. You need to be aware that if you do this you wont have power steering, voltage to your battery, or a running water pump...so you need to let it cool down so it wont overheat and be careful racing becaue you wont have power steering (which isn't that big of a deal once you get rolling and also not that big of a deal becase you wont be going THAT fast).
You want the front shocks to be loose enough so that the front begins to lift on launch but not so loose that it bounces after the shock compresses back down.
You want the front to have free-extension so that it will transfer the weight onto the hard rear shocks which are trying to get as much forward power as possible.
.5 would be on the very very low end...if you run 15s with full boltons and nitrous there is something really really wrong. High 15s with boltons should only happen if you're at VERY high DA at your track.
.5 would be on the very very low end...if you run 15s with full boltons and nitrous there is something really really wrong. High 15s with boltons should only happen if you're at VERY high DA at your track.
or horrible 60 foots!!
Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
.5 would be on the very very low end...if you run 15s with full boltons and nitrous there is something really really wrong. High 15s with boltons should only happen if you're at VERY high DA at your track.
what is very high DA. i know we got a high humidity and the track is like 10ft(est) above sea level.
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